Funny names can sometimes lead to pleasant surprises where you least expect them. The Chilean wine De Fruta Madre is one such example. “Of mother’s fruit” can suggest a few things, but in this case it hints at the “birthing” process this carmenere wine undergoes: the arguably womb-like carbonic maceration method.
Known as “carbo” in France, carbonic maceration is a technique popularized in Beaujolais that involves fermenting grapes in an oxygen-free environment filled with carbonic gas, resulting in whole bunches of berries fermenting from the inside. Once the alcohol content reaches a certain level, the berries burst and the fermentation continues, with the enzymes doing their work.
The combination of carmenere and carbonic maceration in the De Fruta Madre is a delicious pairing that highlights the fruity character of the carmenere grape, giving it a velvety texture. The wine has great volume and poise on the palate, making it very drinkable now (wines that undergo carbonic maceration aren’t known for their aging potential, hence the lower score for this wine, despite our love for it).
The soft tannins and fresh acidity contribute to its crunchy character, and the style is more reminiscent of carmeneres from Friuli in the northern part of Italy rather than their Chilean counterparts, although most styles of carmenere are characterized by their signature aromas of green bell pepper and tomato leaf.
De Fruta Madre is produced by Valle Secreto and is a pleasant and surprising find, particularly for those who are less experienced with different wine styles. It is an excellent introduction to the various expressions of carmenere.
– Kevin Davy, Tasting Manager
