William's Article: Drinks For Jefferson

Wednesday was Thomas Jefferson’s birthday. Since Washington has become too Hamiltonian, I decided to go out to dinner and celebrate with friends from Paris. We wanted to stick to wines Jefferson loved. No Gouttes d’Or, but we got close with a 2004 Comtes Lafon “Charmes” Meursault. It took a little while to open up into elegant ripe quince flavors, and a little butterscotch. It had good structure, and that fine minerality I love in Charmes; 93 points of pure pleasure. Then on to Château Haut-Brion. Jefferson served hundreds of bottles when he was Secretary of State, Vice President, and President. He used to order it for George Washington too. We had a 1979, an incredible, mature Haut-Brion. It was dark, silky, and plummy, with a little burnt caramel and a long, beautiful finish. It was more impressive than an ’86 I had a few weeks ago. 94 points? After dinner we had a 1991 Yquem – not a classic year, maybe more subtle than some Yquems, but a beautiful wine with that unmistakable honeyed, orange marmalade finish. I have to make this a tradition. So, only 364 days to go.

William McIlhenny is associate publisher of JamesSuckling.com. A former American diplomat and member of the Secretary of State’s Policy Planning Staff, he held a number of assignments in Europe and Latin America. He works in Washington, D.C.