Weekly Tasting Report (Sep 7-13): Argentina, Australia, Austria, France, Italy, South Africa, Spain, USA

 

The 242 wines we tasted last week span a wide range of countries from Australia, Spain, Italy, France, Argentina, the United States, Austria and South Africa. We also published a substantial Barossa Valley Tasting Report last week covering this very important region in South Australia and there’s a big tasting of German wines also in the pipe. Stay tuned for that, the 2019 German vintage is one to really look forward to.

Our top wine this week is a chardonnay from Tasmania, the island state of Australia, located off the south coast of Victoria in a true cool climate. The 2019 Tolpuddle Chardonnay (98 points) is the latest in a string of highly rated vintages for this wine and is an expression of a single, mature vineyard in the Coal River Valley region, just outside the capital city, Hobart.

This is a thoroughly modern chardonnay with “power and complexity and the right grade of reductive flair” backed by a very concentrated peach and yellow citrus core of aromas and flavors as well as mineral, wet chalk notes. The palate is mouth-wateringly deep, precise and fresh with the level of tension that defines great chardonnay the world over. I like the “elegance, poise and whip-cracking freshness” here.

Also from Tasmania, the Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir Tasmania Ruscello 2017 (96 points) is from one of the island’s most experienced winegrowers who has pioneered biodynamic farming in Tasmania. It has such intense and pure spicy red and dark-cherry aromas and the palate offers “glossy, bright red-cherry flavors” with a succulent, bright and juicy feel.” The purity here is impressive. Stefano Lubiana’s Chardonnay Tasmania Collina 2017 (95 points) also rated highly and, again, I liked the combination of fruit richness and purity, a hallmark of the best Tasmanian wines.

Clare Valley’s Grossett Wines has released their trio of 2020 vintage rieslings which are always highly-anticipated and all three are reviewed this past week. The lead wine is the regal Grosset Riesling Clare Valley Polish Hill 2020 (96 points) with trademark “stony and mineral character” of this slate-driven terroir and expressive aromas of citrus and wet stones, some peach and fragrant talcum powder. This wine is classically chiseled in 2020 and has potential to improve in bottle for some years.

James tasted with Laura Catena via Zoom this week and the highlight of that tasting was the Catena Zapata Mendoza Nicolas Catena Zapata 2010 (97 points) which is a ”big, rich red” that has impressive primary complexity including “blackberry, chocolate, toasted oak, peat and flowers.” This is layered and full-bodied with youthful intensity that still delivers a focused impression. Give this a couple of years to emulsify.

James and I are both missing our annual visit to taste in Spain where we normally have one of our busiest tasting rooms of the entire year. But James has been tasting many of Spain’s producers in Hong Kong and there are two highlights from Bodega Lanzaga leading the Spanish content this week. Part owner and winemaker Telmo Rodríguez , who also makes various other wines in Spain as well as his family’s Remiluri Riojas, continues his magic at Lanzaga making some of the most exciting terroir-driven reds in the region.

The Bodega Lanzaga Rioja Tabuerniga 2017 (97 points) is bathed in berry fruits and delivers in a full-bodied mode with “round, creamy tannins that are well integrated with the fruit.” And the Bodega Lanzaga Rioja Las Beatas 2017 (also 97 points) scored highly once again with the “fresh flowers and subtle red fruit” following through to a full-bodied palate with “tight tannins that are polished and refined.”

This character of tight tannin extends to the Bodega Lanzaga Rioja La Estrada 2017 (96 points) and the Bodega Lanzaga Rioja El Velado 2017 (96 points), which is a wine with “form and purpose” that has a more linear, racy style on the palate than its siblings. James noted this will age beautifully. All these are recommended to try in a couple years to allow them to really knit together.

The Contino Rioja Vina del Olivo 2007 (96 points) impressed with still-fresh “sweet strawberries and cherries” and “radiant flowers on the nose.” The interplay of richness and firmness here impressed with “a deep, plush core of fruit in the center palate and loads of ripe tannins.”

Also look for the impressive selection of highly rated Rioja wines all scoring 95 points this past week. These include the Bodegas Roda Rioja Reserva 2016, Bodegas Palacio Rioja Cosme Palacio Viñedos Viejos Reserva 2015, Bodega Lanzaga Rioja Lanzaga 2015, Pujanza Rioja Finca Valdepoleo 2017, Contino Rioja Selección del Enólogo 2017, Bodegas Palacio Rioja Glorioso Crianza Selección Especial 100 Años 2017, Granja de Nuestra Señora de Remelluri Rioja Lindes de Remelluri Viñedos de San Vicente de la Srra. 2016, Bodegas Palacio Rioja Cosme Palacio Vendimia Seleccionada 2018, Altos de Rioja Rioja Pigeage 2017 and the López de Heredia Rioja Crianza Viña Cubillo 2012.

Some new-release Beaujolais wines were tasted by James in Hong Kong with two of the region’s most consistent producers leading those ratings. The Château Thivin Côte-de-Brouilly Clos Bertrand 2018 (96 points) has “impressive purity of fruit and complexity on the nose” and a palate that is focused and intense. The Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py 2018 (96 points) is seductive with an “opulent and vivid” nose packed with berry fruits and a “fresh and creamy-textured “ palate that holds very long flavors into the finish.

Italy is led by the Schiopetto Venezia-Giulia Podere dei Blumeri 2018 (97 points) which is a dense red blend that is half merlot and half refosco. This is generous and structured with “really delicious flavors of chocolate, light coffee, currants and berries” that will benefit from a couple of years to meld together. Also from Schiopetto, the white Friulano Collio Mario Schiopetto M 2019 (97 points) is an intense and steely wine with “peach-pit, stone, sliced-apple, acacia and citrus aromas” that follow through to a full-bodied palate with lovely polish and intensity that is delicious now and will age well too.

Then, rated 96 points, is the Schiopetto Venezia-Giulia Rivarossa 2018 which is a blend of 85% merlot and 15% cabernet franc that fuses ripe dark berries and chocolate with “creamy, polished tannins and a flavorful finish.”  This proves that Friuli is finally making some very exciting reds in Italy!

Meanwhile, some late Brunellos and Barolos were also rated. The San Polino Brunello di Montalcino Helichrysum 2013 is a powerfully attractive and satisfying Brunello and the Ettore Germano Barolo Vigna Rionda 2015 (96 points) is another powerfully structured and flavorful rendition of this long-aging 2015 vintage in Piedmont that is “already a joy to taste.”

It is rewarding to think we can continue to taste from so far and so wide during this time and we sincerely hope you enjoy reading about our highlights as much as we enjoyed tasting and rating them for you.

Enjoy and stay safe.

– Nick Stock, executive editor