You’ll find some very unique wines among this week’s highlights of the 250 we tasted, with James rating a number of the history-steeped Rioja wines from Lopez de Heredia highly, as well as the latest release Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Georges de Latour Private Reserve 2017. And I tasted the newest releases from Sami-Odi, one of the Barossa Valley’s brightest new cult producers, which are absolutely their best wines to date.
The Sami-Odi Shiraz Barossa Valley Hoffmann Dallwitz 2018 (99 points) is our highest rated wine this week. This is a uniquely modern take on the powerful shiraz of the Ebenezer district of South Australia’s Barossa Valley with “essence-like purity and depth on the nose” as well as very clearly defined tannins carrying immense depth of flavor. It is such a bold statement and yet so resolved already and will drink well for two decades.
Sami-Odi’s Little Wine #9 NV (96 points) is a blend of shiraz from 2019 (42%), 2018 (37%), 2017 (13%), 2016 (4%) & 2015 (4%) and is a Beaujolais-inspired rendition of fresh but deeply flavored Barossa shiraz. Completely unique. The aromas of “deep black fruit …as well as darker notes of stone, tar and iodine” are youthful yet complex and the palate is already balanced and drinkable.
Joining a number of highly rated Eden Valley rieslings in our recent Barossa Tasting Report, the Tom Foolery Riesling Eden Valley Cut & Run 2020 (96 points) is another example of gossamer fine yet very intensely flavored riesling from Eden Valley in 2020. This shows all the “attractive, lemon and lime … a gently peachy edge” and a “pure drive of acidity and succulent fruit presence” on the palate. Drink or age this.
The highest rated wine in a series from López de Heredia tasted this week is the Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia White 2001 (98 points). James noted the “wonderful aromas of almonds, nougat, dried peaches and vanilla bean” that follow through to “a dense palate of ripe fruit and amazing, unique vanilla cream.” These wines are unique, complex and well-aged and a “historical taste of Rioja that every wine lover should try.”
Two younger vintages of this same wine both rated 97 points too. James described the 2008 as a fresh example of “pristine, classic Rioja with vanilla, lanolin, sea salt, light blanched almond and nougat.” The 2009 vintage is “unique” and showed “intense aromas of cooked lemon, dried apple, light vanilla and stone with some waxy and lanolin character” that has a “dense, layered palate with beautiful fruit, nougat and meringue at the finish.”
Another highly rated young white Rioja, the Granja de Nuestra Señora de Remelluri Rioja Blanco 2017 (98 points) is “Rioja’s answer to grand cru Burgundy” with “dried-apple, peach, stone and mineral aromas and flavors” in a layered and full-bodied style that is both bright and complex and has “seamless texture.”
Moving into reds, the Contino Rioja Gran Reserva 2011 (97 points) impressed James with “lots of ripeness and richness” in a style that is “full-bodied and layered with beautiful, ripe tannins and opulent, light earthy character.” The López de Heredia Rioja Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva 2001 (96 points) showed “gorgeous, ripe aromas and flavors of dried berries, sultanas, tobacco, cigar tobacco and Spanish cedar” in a very complex expression. The López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia 2009 (96 points) has very ripe crushed berry fruits in a more youthful mode and has “round, soft tannins and a flavorful finish” that is a richer expression than past vintages yet “turns linear and refined at the finish.”
One of the classics of Napa, the Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Georges de Latour Private Reserve 2017 (97 points), reminded James of the classic old vintages from the 1960s and 1970s. This is “one of the most balanced Georges de Latours, offering currants, minerals, fresh herbs and spices” with a “long and focused” palate that is “very elegant and refined in the end.” Check out James’s Zoom tasting with Trevor Durling, winemaker and general manager at the estate, above.
Also from Napa and the 2017 vintage, the Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Stags Leap District The Leap 2017 (96 points) showed “beautiful aromas of currants and crushed strawberries with flowers and cedar” and is “full-bodied with firm, well poised tannins that show tension and form. But it will benefit from some time to soften.
Two pinot noir wines from Etude are both rated 96 points this week. The Etude Pinot Noir Sonoma County Carneros Grace Benoist Ranch Deer Camp Vineyard 2018 (96 points) shows bold fruit with “ripe plum and strawberry with some floral, smoke and redwood undertones.” It has “very fine tannins and a fruity finish … is poised and focused with a pretty smoky aftertaste to the fruit and some black truffle coming through.” The Etude Pinot Noir Napa Valley Carneros Grace Benoist Ranch Laniger Vineyard 2018 (96 points) has “complex aromas” and the palate is “full-bodied with layers of fruit and very, very fine tannins.” James says these are both drinkable now but better after two more years.
Tuscany’s Mazzei Toscana Siepi 2018 (97 points) also showed really well in our tastings as an “extremely perfumed and crystal-clear” blend of merlot and sangiovese with “very fine tannins that are extremely polished and refined.” This fine release marks the 25th anniversary of Siepi.
This week we found such a unique and eclectic range of wines in our highlights. They variously draw on a long-established heritage and tradition, as well as ancient vines and vineyard pedigree to deliver great and distinctive styles.
Enjoy and stay safe.
– Nick Stock, executive editor
