Weekly Tasting Report (Oct 5-11): Big names hit top form
We published a big tranche of Spanish reviews and ratings this week and several are included in this week’s highlights. Krug weighed in with a seriously good set of latest releases when James caught up with Olivier Krug via Zoom. And Nick is making his way through the top producers in Victoria and Tasmania whose established greats as well as rising stars have also made the cut this week.
A master of the classically styled, elegant and medium-bodied Bordeaux-style blend, the Yarra Valley’s Mount Mary has released an outstanding flagship Quintet 2018 (99 points). This is a great edition of this standard bearer for elegant Yarra Valley claret and the greatest Quintet in two decades, maybe more. So detailed and fresh on the nose, with a central theme of red and dark berries, the palate has intensity and expressive, vibrant tannins. Power and grace. Drink or cellar.
The Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut 2006 (99 points) is a “fabulous edition of Clos du Mesnil” says James and typifies the dual edge of “density and agility at the same time.” This is a striking Champagne for the intensity and drive and a lesson in precise acid structure. “Even better than the 2004,” is James’ verdict and one that can be cellared reliably. Also from 2006, the Krug Champagne Brut 2006 impressed with “round, ample mouth feel” and it too can be reliably tucked away for a decade or more.
Always a very vinous rosé, the Krug Champagne Rosé 24ème Edition NV (98 points) has such freshness of “strawberry and peach” as well as a “linear and precise” palate “with pinpointed structure that goes straight to the center palate and carries on through the long finish.” This is always a fascinating Champagne to taste when released, as it offers such vibrant primary fruit that is underpinned by seriously layered, powerful structure. Again, one to drink or cellar with confidence.
Then a pair of equally impressive but quite different Krug Champagne Grande Cuvée releases. The 162ème Edition NV (97 points) is a matured release that is “starting to show some age with a nutty undertone to the biscuit and pie crust, as well as cooked apple and lemon curd.” The base here is 2006 and it is showing plenty of depth with the oldest component is from 1990. The more recent Krug Champagne Grande Cuvée 168ème Edition NV (97 points) has a big spectrum of quite rich aromas and is “full bodied with layers of fruit and a really lively backbone of acidity and energy.” Based on the 2012 harvest, James says drink now.
James’s Zoom tasting with Krug’s Olivier Krug revealed some exceptional bottles.
Spain’s Artadi Alava Viña El Pison 2017 (98 points) is another impressive release from this producer. It is “very tight and focused with precise tannins that run deep and long on the palate,” says James. From Haro’s tradition-steeped López de Heredia, the Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia 2001 (97 points) “is really something” and has the classic aged and complex older Rioja characters that James found “reminiscent of the interior of a fine vintage sports car.” These are such great and unique wines.
The dynamic Telmo Rodriguez has a trio of outstanding wines all rated 97 points here. The Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez Valdeorras O Diviso 2017 is at the subtle end of the range with a “reserved palate and ultra fine and light, chewy tannins.” These there’s the “rich, opulent” Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez Valdeorras As Caborcas 2017 which consistently rates well in our tastings. James loved the “fine, polished tannins” and “super flavorful finish.” The Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez Valdeorras Falcoeira A Capilla 2017 is a full-bodied, “structured and rich young red” with a seductively long, slate-like finish.
Expat Australian Mark Haisma’s Echézeaux Grand Cru 2017 (97 points) made a big impression and reminded James of the ethereal textural qualities of Emmanuel Rouget Echezeaux. He praised the “firm yet layered texture of exquisite tannins” and the “purity and clarity of fruit” in this young Grand Cru.
Joshua Cooper is one of Australia’s brightest young stars right now and the 2019 releases shows why he is so highly rated. The Pinot Noir Port Phillip Ray-Monde Vineyard 2019 (97 points) is all blueberry, violet and spice and has “Chambolle-like elegance and evenness.” The Pinot Noir Macedon Ranges Doug’s Vineyard 2019 (97 points) is a very complex, fragrant and expressive pinot that leads with red flowers and fruits that are backed up by tannins that have explosive energy.
Cooper’s Chardonnay Macedon Ranges Old Port Righ Vineyard 2019 (97 points) has made a mark in recent vintages and this is right on par. It typifies the Macedon Ranges’ ability to deliver boldly commanding chardonnay and the palate is packed with pear, tangerine, grapefruit and lemon in deeply fleshy style, underpinned by salient acidity. So impressive.
And Tasmania’s Stefano Lubiana delivered more impressive pinot with the Pinot Noir La Roccia 2017 (97 points) offering a very powerful and complex expression with such intensity as well as grace and poise. Plenty of rich red and dark cherries, spicy oak, forest wood, violet and more, the palate structure is immaculate and refined. This is such an impressive pinot for now or later. Also look for the Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir Tasmania Sasso 2017 which I rated 96 points this week.
Some big names take centre stage in this week’s highlights with wines that are in career-best form. From Champagne, to Rioja to Australia’s cool-climate regions, the intensity seen across of many of this week’s top wines is electrifying. And then we have a wine like the Lopez de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia 2001 to remind us that the classics never go out of style.
Enjoy and stay safe.
– Nick Stock, executive editor