Weekly Tasting Report (Nov 2-8, 2020): Alsace dominates another 400+ ratings week
James and Nick hit their second 400+ wine tasting week in the space of a few weeks.
Tastings are really gearing up as we head into November. This past week we tasted and rated 410 wines, one of our biggest weeks of tasting. On top of the wines featured here, there are also groups of wines like Brunello di Montalcino that we are tasting but holding off from publishing for now as they will come in dedicated reports. We have never been busier.
Contributing Editor Stuart Piggott has been tasting Alsace and there are a number of top rated wines this week from the respected biodynamic producer Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. Leading these is the Domaine Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain 2018 (98 points) which is a “giant Alsace pinot gris that’s brimming with smoke, caramelized-pear, cooked-quince and mushroom aromas” and has “rich and very complex texture.”
The Domaine Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Clos Jebsal Sélection de Grains Nobles 2018 (97 points) is “like a liquid creme brulee with a twist of lemon adding the essential freshness” and excels with richness and balance “that pulls you back for more.” The Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain 2018 (97 points) Stuart describes as an “almost overwhelming wine … so smoky with complex, exotic-fruit aromas and wild-herb notes” and balanced ”buttery richness” in the mouth.
“Welcome to the spice cabinet!” says Stuart about the Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Alsace Grand Cru Hengst 2018 (97 points). This is “an enormously spicy gewurz that’s got so much structure (great tannins, like a top red!) that the sweetness is pushed into the background.” I love this note from Stuart and cannot wait to taste this wine myself.
There’s also the Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain 2018 (97 points), a “unique dry riesling” which is “super concentrated and super elegant.” The Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Brand 2018 (97 points) is “a breathtakingly vibrant dry white that “has an almost weightless feel.”
Also on the riesling theme, I did a big tasting of the 2020 riesling vintage from Australia’s Eden Valley last week and there are many highlights in this very strong vintage. These wines have fleshy concentrated appeal and long-term structure. We have previously published many high scores from producers like Pewsey Vale, Flaxman, Henschke, Rieslingfreak and Tom Foolery and now add many more this week. Watch out for the Sons of Eden Riesling Eden Valley Freya 2020 and Peter Lehmann Riesling Eden Valley Wigan 2020, both rated 96 points here.
I was also fortunate to taste a special museum selection of wines from the cellars of Cape Mentelle last week. A set of current and museum wines were shipped to taste and mark their 50th anniversary and are also available for sale via auction house Langtons Fine Wines. These include their famous 1983 cabernet sauvignon and, at nearly 40 year of age, is an exceptional example of how well top Margaret River cabernet sauvignon can age (98 points). The current 2016 vintage is rated 96 points and is right in line with their consistent level of high quality.
New Zealand wineries are being tasted by myself in Australia right now and the 2019 chardonnays from Kumeu River mark some of their greatest releases in an esteemed lineage. The Kumeu River Chardonnay Kumeu Mate’s Vineyard 2019 (98 points) has a “very complex array of fruit … as well as a minerally edge.” This delivers intense flavors “in a textural masterpiece of elegant length and discreet power.” The single site 2019 chardonnays all hit high scores and the 2019 Estate Chardonnay (94 points) is one of the best value New Zealand whites currently available.
James tasted the Faust Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Coombsville The Pact 2018 (96 points) as a stand-out Napa wine “showing focus and purity that highlights the unique character of this appellation” and is “full-bodied, yet tight and poised.” From Italy, the Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Mazzano 2012 (96 points) is a “reserved and beautiful” Amarone with plums, blackberries, violets and blueberries. This is always a bold, full-bodied wine and James singled out the “toned tannins” in this 2012.
Things are really ramping up for our tasting year now, as we round up wines from all countries and producers. There’s incredible depth and breadth in James’ and my tastings right now with wines from Italy, France, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, Portugal, USA, Chile and Uruguay all in the mix. And if you haven’t checked it out yet, our Spanish Tasting Report recently posted is comprehensive coverage of this exciting nation’s best producers and wines.
Enjoy and stay safe.
– Nick Stock, executive editor