Weekly Tasting Report (Jan 8-11): Some Sterling Right Bank Bordeaux and Warming Up to 2018 Barolos
Bordeaux 2019 and Barolo 2018 lead this report of our tastings over the past week in Hong Kong, Germany and Italy, with names such as Le Gay, Bonalgue, and Feytit-Clinet as well as Pio Cesare and Corino shining brightly, among others. Plus, the Mosel’s Markus Molitor continues to push out outstanding wines, particularly ausleses, from the excellent 2020 vintage.
I have been a fan of the 2019 vintage in Bordeaux ever since I tasted it from barrel in Spring 2020, writing that “the wines seem more typical for Bordeaux – which is a good thing – with a balance of alcohol, cool and blue fruits and fine linear tannins that are refined and driven.” And this is true in general after rating more than 700 bottled wines in Hong Kong with my team so far.
What doesn’t seem the same as from barrel is that many of the lesser-ranked wines from less popular appellations, from simple Bordeaux to the Cotes de Bordeaux, are not as high quality. So it appears a word of caution there is necessary. This was certainly true with the Haut-Medoc. But they are good quality in general. I need to taste more.
The highlight for me so far, as I have written before, is the Right Bank. The Pomerols are marvelous. So many show such flamboyant fruit and gloriously polished and plush tannins, yet there’s a finesse and integration to them. They remind me of such great Pomerol years as 2005, 1998 and 1989 – even 1982. They are wines that really impress with each sip even at such an early age. They are so good that you want to drink them, but that would be a waste considering their aging potential.
The 200 or so St. Emilions I also tasted over the last five weeks are almost as compelling and show a richness and freshness at the same time. The wines from chalky soils are very typical with a minerally, almost salty undertone. Terroir typicity is a character I value in the Right Bank 2019s.
This quote from one of my 2019 en primeur reports from the trendy yet down-to-earth consulting enologist Thomas Duclos holds true today for the top Right Bank wines in 2019.
“I prefer 2019 to 2018 as the wines have this depth and density of the 2018 or 2010 [maybe a little less power] with the sensuality and sexiness that you really liked in 2015,” said Duclos, one of the most popular consulting enologists in Bordeaux at the moment, who makes refined and polished wines. “The great evolution of Bordeaux in recent years seems to me to be this ability to make great wines more accessible in their young years. And I think 2019 is a very good example of this.”
READ MORE: TOP 100 WINES OF FRANCE 2021
Our thoughts on 2018 Barolo are not as enthusiastic, but there are some excellent bottles. Tastings Editor Jo Cooke has rated a few dozen already and finds them very fresh and elegant with fine tannins. They are the complete opposite of the bold and rich 2017s. The growing season in 2018 was cooler and wetter compared with the 2017, which was dry and hot.
“We are extremely happy about 2018 and we can’t wait to finally release it in the market in March 2022,” said Federica Boffa, one of the owners of Pio Cesare. “Finally we will enjoy a classical vintage! Temperatures during summer were not extremely high, avoiding any dangerous heat spikes. Regular storms kept the first months of summer mild and the water reserves full, allowing for a steady vegetative cycle, crucial for the well-being of our vines. August, September and October were drier and warmer, with sunny days and cooler nights, which allowed Nebbiolo to reach a regular and complete ripening with healthy grape profiles.”
Indeed, the way she describes the year it sounds like very good ones such as 1995, 2004, 2009 or even 2014. We will see with hundreds of more Barolos to rate in the future. Stay tuned.
One lone wine to note in the report is the 96-point pinot noir from Schubert Wines in Martinborough, New Zealand. It’s a 2016, and Senior Editor Stuart Pigott’s enthusiastic tasting note says it reminds him of aged Grand Cru Burgundy. It proves what I have been writing recently on how well New Zealand pinot noir ages regardless of what appellation. Believe it, and check out the other notes in this report.
– James Suckling, Chairman/Editor
The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated during the past week by James Suckling and the other tasters at JamesSuckling.com. They include many latest releases not yet available on the market, but which will be available soon. Some will be included in upcoming tasting reports.
Note: You can sort the wines below by country, vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.