Weekly Tasting Report (Aug 24-30): Germany’s 2020 Vintage Amazes, Refined Rioja Reds and a Compelling Laurent-Perrier Champagne
The Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Grande Cuvée N. 23 Magnum is available only in magnums, starting mid-October in Europe. (Photo by JamesSuckling.com)
It is going to be interesting to see in the end if Germany’s newest vintage (2020) is close in quality to its greatest modern vintage ever (2019) considering the consistent 100- and 99-point ratings of top wines from 2020 coming from the top estates.
Senior Editor Stuart Pigott is just as surprised himself with the number of amazing wines he has been finding from 2020 in his tasting, and he points out that they are mostly from key and highly respected winemakers in this week’s report, including the revered names of Keller and Wittmann. This is one of our biggest weekly reports ever, with more than 760 ratings.
If I only looked at the scores of wines for some of the top names of Spain tasted over the past week, such as Artadi, Alvaro Palacios and Rioja Alta, I would have the same unrealistic idea about the 2018 vintage for the country, especially in Rioja. The year seems to have produced extremely refined and balanced reds that have some of the same linear transparency of the excellent 2016 vintage but without the slightly exaggerated tannins. Check out the top scorers in this report, such as the Artadi Alava Viña El Pison 2018 and Alvaro Palacios Priorat L’Ermita 2019.
FRIULI MASTERS: James tastes the 2020 vintages from Italy’s Volpe Pasini and Schiopetto.
COMPELLING CHAMPAGNE: Discussing the Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Grande Cuvée N.23 NV Magnum.
‘BETTER BALANCE’
Carlos Lopez de Lacalle, part of the family that owns Artadi, said: “The wines that need to be ageble need to be drinkable when they are young. That’s our idea. The [2018] tannins are ripe, and they have nice acidity.
“Yes, they will age,” he added. “I think that the 2018 is like the 2008 but with a better balance.”
Lopez de Lacalle also pointed out that his family’s winemaking technique is much less interventionist than years ago, particularly playing into the balance and freshness of a harvest like 2018. For example, he said that they use barrels in the aging of their wines only until the natural malolactic fermentations are finished. That’s about nine months in total, including the barrel alcoholic fermentations. A few years ago the wines might have been in barrel around two years, and the wines extracted more wood tannins and austerity.
“We don’t want the wood character or aromas getting integrated into the wine,” de Lacalle said, pointing out that they believe this comes after the wines are in wood, following the malolactic fermentation.
A special bottling of the Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Grande Cuvée N.23 NV Magnum was equally compelling in our tastings. The late-release No. 23 Grand Siècle may number only a few thousand magnums – although the Champagne house would not confirm this – and it’s aged an extra two years before it is disgorged and released. I was blown away by the complexity of the subtle aromas of brioche, pie crust, lemon tart and fresh apple. It’s full-bodied and extremely structured, yet also maintains its incredible energy and power. A blend of 58 percent chardonnay and 42 percent pinot noir, this sublime Champagne includes three vintages: 2006 (65 percent), 2004 (20 percent) and 2002 (15 percent).
READ MORE: IS 2019 GERMANY’S 100-POINT VINTAGE?
AUSTRALIA’S BEST
According to Contributing Editor Nick Stock, Yangarra Grenache McLaren Vale Ovitelli 2019 is at the same quality level as the LP Grand Siecle, and I am not surprised. This single-vineyard grenache is one of the best in Australia, and the 2019 is the best ever – so far.
The new release of Galardi Campania Terra di Lavoro 2019 may also be its best ever, with its deep and silky structure and endless finish. I have always enjoyed this wine, which is produced just a short drive from Naples, due to its unique tar-like undertones from the volcanic soils of the vineyard and subtle and traditional winemaking. It is one of the best wines we rated this year from southern Italy.
Another Italian red to take note of, and which gave the same sensation of quality and character, is the San Leonardo Carmenère Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2015. I love excellent carmenere, but it’s hard to find due to the intense herbal and jammy character it can deliver in wines. This is particularly true in Europe, but the tiny mountain vineyards of San Leonardo in Trentino make an incredible small-production carmenere, and the 2015 is the best ever.
Also, don’t miss out trying to buy and taste the new white wine from one of the best producers of Friuli, Schiopetto. The Schiopetto Friuli Amrità Bianco A 2020 is a fantastic and bright cask-fermented, single-vineyard chardonnay with a touch of friulano. The old guard and arguably the creator of the genre of white blends in Italy, Jermann Venezia-Giulia Vintage Tunina, was equally great with its new release, 2019, in our tastings over the last seven days.
There are so many exciting and unique wines in this week’s report. You can check out the tasting notes on all of them below.
– James Suckling, Chairman/Editor
The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated during the previous week by James and other tasters at JamesSuckling.com. They include many latest releases not yet available on the market, but which will be available soon. Some will be included in upcoming tasting reports.
Note: You can sort the wines below by country, vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.