“Minchia!” (Oh my God!) is a helluva way to introduce a wine, but when Vietti’s Luca Currado, one of Italy’s most talented and endearing winemakers is on his feet explaining the story behind the family’s single-vineyard cru Barolo Villero Riserva, it’s hardly going to be a one-off incident. The wines are formidable, Currado irrepressible; it’s a great combination.
On the table is not one, not two, but four vintages of this rare and thrilling Barolo, of which only ten have been released to date. Tasting these wines is both thrilling and humbling, the wine equivalent of playing four games of chess with Gary Kasparov.
To be elevated to Riserva, the wine must undergo fermentation in stainless steel, malolactic fermentation in barrique, a long rest in 30hl Slavonian oak casks and further time in bottle, before its ultimate release after seven years. By contrast, most Barolo Riservas spend a mere five years ageing.
To say this wine is a long-term prospect is somewhat of an understatement. Currado describes it as a “testimony for future generations, a wine that will challenge and inspire them tasted many years from now. They should feel the same emotions I feel today.”
What a profoundly fascinating tasting this was. All the Barolos came across as very unique yet closely related wines, from the newly released 2007 to the powerful and tight 2006, and from the supple and eerily complete-looking 2004 to the assertive yet fragrant 2001.
2007 Vietti Barolo Riserva Villero: Shows a distinct chalky note on the nose, and gives an impression of deep connection to site and soil with fruit characters starting very much in the background, blue-fruited perfume emerging with air, essence-like red cherry fruits and plenty of dark, woody herbal aromas. The palate delivers superb depth already, looking very complete and including even lashings of sweet cherry and boysenberry flavors, super-fine tannins cast right throughout ripe fruit, and acidity that sits discreetly before smoothly resolving. Charming now, though this should show its best in another six to eight years.
2006 Vietti Barolo Riserva Villero: The nose makes a cooler impression with a wealth of fragrance and ripe herbs as well as a stony edge, fresh-poured concrete, cumquat peel and gentle meaty elements too. Extremely complex and dynamic in the glass. The palate brings a clear sense of tight-coiled power, depth and density. Dark cherry and chocolate flavors are compressed between sheets of powerful tannins and excellent acidity. Drying gently as it finishes, this is commanding, regal and long. Best given more time, this has another ten years to reach its peak.
2004 Vietti Barolo Riserva Villero: An impressively complete and showy vintage of Villero, this is the most tarry of the four wines tasted with all kinds of dark herbs and menthol in the mix of aromas, the trademark fine stony mineral edge and plenty of lighter floral notes. The palate has a creamy smooth texture with sweet dark cherry and plum fruit flesh framed in open, hearty tannins, creamed spice flavors and a supple, soft and deeply satisfying finish. This has a great life ahead.
2001 Vietti Barolo Riserva Villero: Immensely fragrant, this has evolved through to more tertiary characters with exotic truffle and earthy notes building out of dried leafy aromas, musky perfume and dried red cherry fruits. It has a complex and layered palate texture built on fine, juicy and assertive tannins, delivering flavor of earth, meat and truffles as well as red plum and darker cherry notes. Mature now, but should hold for another decade at the very least.
Photo courtesy of Vietti.
Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.
