Uruguay Annual Report: Setting a New Standard
The 176 Uruguayan wines we rated in our Hong Kong office this year might not comprise as comprehensive a list as can be squeezed out from such a diverse and growing wine-producing country, but the top bottles we rated add another chapter to the country’s intriguing tannat story, with enough exciting breakthrough albariños, including our top scorer, to thicken the plot.
Although albariño is still a niche variety in Uruguay, with just over 80 hectares of plantings, mostly in the Atlantic-influenced southern part of the country, producers like Santiago Deicas of Familia Deicas are helping set a new paradigm with wines like the Familia Deicas Albarińo Maldonado Cru d’Exception 2020. It comes from a granitic-soil vineyard that Deicas owns in Garzon, in the coastal province of Maldonado. The vineyard is a coveted source of some of Uruguay’s finest and most minerally wines, all with high acidity and low pH levels.
What they produced from the granitic soils in 2020 was “super, super acid and with the lowest pH in a wine that I remember,” Deicas said during a Zoom interview (below). “It was less than sparkling.”
READ MORE URUGUAY 2022 REPORT: AS ZESTY ALBARIÑO RISES, TANNAT EMBRACES ITS FRESH SIDE
“The quality of grapes was amazing. What happened was we fermented in mainly new, Burgundy-style barrels in a spontaneous fermentation, and we were expecting something similar to what happens with great, great chardonnays,” he said, explaining the logic of making something as vinous and credible as, let’s say, Meursault, but tangier and with more salinity.
The wine reminds me of great, young Meursault, with a creamy oak punch before the mineral verve becomes explicit. Patience is required as the saline, austere minerality gradually comes to the fore and overtakes the creamy, hedonistic oak.
Deicas said albariño wines were in the midst of “a big, big revolution” in the country as winemakers experimented with what he called a “very flexible” variety.
The fact that this very first vintage of the Cru d’Exception is rated as the top Uruguayan wine this year and as one of the best albariños on JamesSuckling.com shows our strong belief in where Uruguay is headed with the variety.
Even though Uruguay is a red meat country – there are nearly as many cattle as there are people – and red wine is the natural and clear market leader, we would expect even more committed producers to jump onto the bandwagon of making fresh, mineral, and serious albariños that contend with those of Rias Baixas, in terms of both quality and diversity.
For his red wines, Deicas absorbs inspiration from coffeemaking to deliver fresh, drinkable tannats with a depth of flavors and round tannins. His Bizarra Tannat Sierra de Mahoma Cold Brew 2021 and Bizarra Tannat Sierra de Mahoma Espresso 2021 are two wines that left us in awe of this approach, showing how winemaking can shape the style of tannat, as the grapes for this vintage came from the same terroir.
The “cold brew” undergoes a long, cold fermentation that gently extracts flavors, delivering a crunchy, more fluid and herbal expression of tannat with plenty of red and blue fruit plus a hint of intriguing earthy funk and wildness. The “espresso,” meanwhile, involves a short-duration, high-temperature fermentation, with the solids being racked off in the middle of fermentation before the alcohol level goes up. The wine is juicy, rich, more concentrated and lusher than the cold brew, with round, fleshy mid-palate fruit and smooth, refined tannins – a reflection of the optimal ripeness the grapes were picked at.
RICHNESS FROM 2020
You can expect to find the same kind of richness from much of Uruguay’s 2020 vintage, as it was very dry overall, and producers are excited about the general quality of the wines.
Given the Atlantic maritime influence that holds sway over Uruguay, vintage variation can be enormous in the country. While 2023 is considered one of the driest vintages in history, 2021 and 2022 were almost completely the opposite. Both were cool and wet vintages, and 2022 was one of the rainiest and most challenging years even though albariños and tannats fared well.
“For 2021 and 2022, we had very dry springs, but the big difference was the weather during harvest,” Deicas said. “In 2021, the rain fell at the beginning of the harvest, which was good for albariño and tannat. In 2022 it was super rainy during the harvest, much more than in 2021. Again, grapes like albariño, tannat, and even pinot noir did well, but the rest was a big challenge.”
For Eduardo Boido of Bodega Bouza, the rain in 2022 was not a big issue for albariño, as the grape loved the water. “Of course, 2020 would be much rounder and voluminous over 2021 and 2022, and the wine tended to be more perfumed, too,” he added. His albariño in 2022 was even fresher and more linear, although it was also lighter in flavors.
Although we expected to find ripeness, plushness, and hedonism in his 2020s, his Bouza Tannat Montevideo A6 Parcela Única 2020, a parcel that comes from Melilla, went a little too far with a stunning 16 percent alcohol.
“Over the last few years, there is a tendency that tannat picks up more alcohol, but remember it is a grape that has high acidity and enormous polyphenols that balance out this high level of ripeness and alcohol,” Boido said.
The good thing is the fruit is still fresh, with no hint of over-ripeness despite the slightly warming alcohol at the finish.
The Bouza Tannat Canelones B3 Parcela Única 2020 is more vibrant. It comes from old, mostly calcareous clay parcel with water-retentive qualities that performed well in the dry vintage. The wine shows refinement, richness, complexity and, most important, freshness. The flagship blend Bouza Tannat Merlot Tempranillo Montevideo Monte Vide Eu 2020 is also rich, as well as lengthy and flavorful, underscored by high intensity and a solid structure.
“2020 was a long harvest since the weather was good,” Boido said. “It was a year of the pandemics, but fortunately, the harvest was not affected by Covid.”
Although Deicas compared the warm and welcoming 2020 vintage with 2018 and 2015 except without the severe heat peaks of the latter two years, Bodega Garzon winemaker German Bruzzone was even more enthusiastic about it.
“2020 was like a textbook vintage, one of the best vintages I’ve ever had, and I have had 23 vintages here,” he said. “I thought 2018 was already great, then 2020 was incredible. It was easier for us to make excellent wines in 2020.”
Bodega Garzon is one of the top producers in Uruguay. It owns more than half the vineyards in Maldonado, with 1,200 plots spread across 250 hectares of vines on gently rolling hills with various exposures. The winery is best known for its tannats and albariños, but this year it was one of their pinot noirs that impressed the most out of any of their wines.
The Bodega Garzón Pinot Noir Garzón Petit Clos Block #87 2020 is a pure and mineral expression full of crushed stone minerality, red berries and dried orange peel, giving an austere and deliciously savory aspect to a unique pinot born of poor, granitic soils amid a dry and healthy vintage.
For their tannats, Bodega Garzon’s owner, Alejandro Bulgeroni, and consultant, Alberto Antonini, have simplified the winemaking process, moving away from strong and powerful offerings and instead emphasizing structure, as driven by the granitic terroir of Bodega Garzon’s vineyards. It is part of their overall effort to make fresher, more drinkable and gastronomic wines, whether tannat, albariño, pinot noir or even cabernet franc.
There are also a few outstanding bottles at the top of our ratings list from serious producers like Pisano, Viña Progreso, Bodega Oceanica Jose Ignacio, and Los Cerros de San Juan, who are all making wines with more high-pitch balance, which means better drinkability, linearity and fluidity based on good intensity and complexity.
That said, the top wines we rated this year are undoubtedly enlightening, each in its own way. We hope this is just a preview of what comes next from the Uruguayan wine scene, and it is now time to look beyond the mighty tannat for even more excellence.
– Zekun Shuai, Senior Editor
Note: You can sort the wines below by vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.
Tasting Notes
Familia Deicas Albarińo Canelones Cru d’Exception 2020 |
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Bodega Garzón Pinot Noir Garzón Petit Clos Block #87 2020 |
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Bizarra Tannat Sierra de Mahoma Cold Brew 2021 |
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Bodega Garzón Cabernet Franc Maldonado Petit Clos Block #560 2020 |
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Bodega Garzón Marselan Garzón Petit Clos Block #487 2020 |
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Bouza Tannat Canelones B3 Parcela Única 2020 |
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Familia Deicas Tannat Uruguay Massimo Deicas Cru 2018 |
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Familia Deicas Uruguay Preludio Barrel Select 2017 |
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Bizarra Tannat Sierra de Mahoma Espresso 2021 |
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Bodega Garzón Albariño Garzón Single Vineyard 2022 |
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Bouza Chardonnay Uruguay Viñedo Pan de Azúcar 2021 |
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Bouza Tannat Merlot Tempranillo Montevideo Monte Vide Eu 2020 |
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Familia Deicas Maldonado Garzón Single Vineyard Finca Valle de Los Manantiales Corte Único 2021 |
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Familia Deicas Tannat Merlot Uruguay Pueblo Garzón Subsuelo Extreme Vineyards 2021 |
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Familia Deicas Tannat Uruguay Domaine Castelar Suelo Invertido Extreme Vineyards 2021 |
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Familia Deicas Viognier Marsanne Lavalleja Cerro del Guazuvirá Extreme Vineyards 2021 |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Tannat Colonia Maderos de San Juan 2018 |
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Viña Progreso Bodega Experimental Tannat Progreso Barrica Abierta Elisa’s Dreams 2018 |
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Viña Progreso Bodega Experimental Tannat Progreso Río de la Plata Old Vines 2020 |
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Alto de la Ballena Syrah Maldonado Cetus 2018 |
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Alto de la Ballena Tannat Viognier Maldonado Reserva 2015 |
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Antigua Bodega Stagnari Uruguay Protagonista Barrica 2020 |
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Artesana Cabernet Franc Merlot Canelones Reserva 2020 |
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Bodega Cerro Chapeu Tannat Uruguay Batoví T1 SIngle Vineyard 2018 |
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Bodega Cerro del Toro Chardonnay Maldonado Singular Fósiles de Mar 2021 |
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Bodega Cerro del Toro Tannat Maldonado Singular Rocamadre 2021 |
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Bodega Garzón Garzón Brut Nature Rosé |
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Bodega Garzón Marselan Garzón Reserva 2021 |
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Bodega Garzón Merlot Garzón Single Vineyard 2020 |
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Bodega Garzón Pinot Noir Garzón Rosé Reserve 2022 |
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Bodega Garzón Tannat Garzón Reserva 2021 |
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Bodega Oceánica José Ignacio Chardonnay Uruguay 2022 |
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Bodega Oceánica José Ignacio Maldonado Ámbar 2022 |
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Bodega Oceánica José Ignacio Merlot Maldonado 2022 |
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Bodega Oceánica José Ignacio Tannat Maldonado 2022 |
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Bouza Albariño Montevideo 2022 |
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Bouza Pinot Noir Uruguay Viñedo Pan de Azúcar 2020 |
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Bouza Tannat Uruguay Viñedo Pan de Azúcar 2020 |
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Familia Deicas Lavalleja Cerro del Guazuvirá Extreme Vineyards Blend 2021 |
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Familia Deicas Merlot Canelones Cru d’Exception 2020 |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Cabernet Sauvignon Colonia Maderos de San Juan Gran Reserva 2018 |
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Montes Toscanini Tannat Canelones Gran Tannat Premium 2020 |
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Pisano Tannat Progreso Reserva Personal de la Familia 2020 |
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Sierra Oriental Maldonado Paraje José Ignacio Casa de la Oriental Grand Vin 2021 |
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Viña Edén Maldonado Pueblo Edén Cerro Negro Gran Reserva 2019 |
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Viña Edén Tannat Maldonado Pueblo Edén Cemento 2019 |
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Viña Edén Tannat Maldonado Pueblo Edén Licor de Tannat 2020 |
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Artesana Chardonnay Petit Manseng Canelones Las Brujas Reserva 2021 |
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Artesana Tannat Canelones Reserva 2021 |
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Barras de Mahoma Cabernet Franc Sierra de Mahoma Signature Winemaker 2021 |
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Bizarra Albariño Garzón Albariño’s Dark Side 2021 |
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Bodega Cerro del Toro Albariño Maldonado Sobre Lías 2022 |
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Bodega Cerro del Toro Maldonado Alquimia Corte Único 2022 |
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Bodega Garzón Albariño Garzón Reserva 2022 |
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Bodega Garzón Cabernet Franc Garzón Reserva 2021 |
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Bodega Garzón Maldonado Vino Espumoso Extra Brut |
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Bodega Garzón Pinot Noir Garzón Rosé de Corte Estate 2022 |
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Bodega Garzón Sauvignon Blanc Uruguay Reserva 2022 |
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Bodega Oceánica José Ignacio Maldonado Pinot Rosé 2022 |
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Bodega Spinoglio Cabernet Franc Sierra de Mahome 2020 |
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Bodega Spinoglio Chardonnay Montevideo Cuchilla Pereyra Single Vineyard 2022 |
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Bodegones del Sur Albariño Maldonado Vineyard Select 2021 |
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Bouza Merlot Uruguay Viñedo Pan de Azúcar 2019 |
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Braccobosca Cabernet Franc Atlantida Gran Ombú 2021 |
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Braccobosca Petit Verdot Atlantida Ombú Reserve 2019 |
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Familia Dardanelli Tannat Canelones Family Reserve 2020 |
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Familia Deicas Albariño Uruguay Atlántico Sur 2022 |
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Familia Deicas Canelones Preludio Barrel Select White Lote n 32 2022 |
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Familia Deicas Tannat Uruguay Atlántico Sur 2021 |
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Finca Las Violetas Cabernet Franc Syrah Marselan Canelones Blend 2020 |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Cabernet Franc Colonia Maderos de San Juan Gran Reserva Single Vineyard 2018 |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Colonia Lahusen Extra Brut Rosé |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Colonia Pentavarietal 2016 |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Riesling Colonia Lahusen Single Vineyard 2021 |
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Montes Toscanini Tannat Canelones La Cumparsita Edición Centenario 2019 |
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Montes Toscanini Tannat Canelones Las Piedras Carlos Montes 2020 |
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Montes Toscanini Tannat Canelones Las Piedras Criado En Roble 2019 |
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Pisano Tannat Progreso Rio de Los Pajaros Reserve 2021 |
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Pizzorno Canelones Select Blend Reserva 2020 |
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Pizzorno Tannat Canelones Reserva 2020 |
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Pizzorno Uruguay Primo 1 2018 |
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Sierra Oriental Maldonado Paraje José Ignacio Naranja Edición Limitada 2021 |
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Viña Edén Pinot Noir Maldonado Pueblo Edén 2021 |
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Viña Salort Cabernet Franc Tannat Canelones Reserva 2020 |
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Viña Salort Cabernet Sauvignon Canelones Reserva 2021 |
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Viña Salort Tannat Canelones Gran Reserva 2021 |
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Alto de la Ballena Viognier Maldonado 2021 |
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Bizarra Tannat Progreso Vino Natural Tannarone 2020 |
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Bizarra Uruguay Vino Natural Amphora 2021 |
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Bizarra Uruguay Vino Natural Orange 2021 |
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Bodega Cerro Chapeu Tannat Uruguay Reserva 2021 |
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Bodega Cerro Chapeu Uruguay Castel Pujol Folklore Tinto 2022 |
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Bodega Cerro del Toro Sauvignon Blanc Maldonado Estate 2022 |
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Bodega Garzón Maldonado Field Blend Rosé 2022 |
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Bodega Garzón Tannat Garzón De Corte 2021 |
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Bodega Narbona Carmelo Maria 2022 |
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Bodega Narbona Petit Verdot Carmelo 2020 |
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Bodega Spinoglio Tannat Montevideo Cuchilla Pereyra 2021 |
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Bodega Spinoglio Uruguay Tinaja Blend 2021 |
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Bodegones del Sur Cabernet Franc Sierra de Mahoma Vineyard Select 2021 |
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Bodegones del Sur Cabernet Sauvignon Juanico 2022 |
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Bouza Tannat Montevideo A6 Parcela Única 2020 |
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Braccobosca Merlot Canelones Ombú Reserve 2020 |
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Braccobosca Tannat Atlantida Ombú Reserve 2020 |
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De Lucca Pinot Noir Canelones Finca Agostina Reserve 2022 |
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De Lucca Tannat Canelones Líbero Reserve 2020 |
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Estigma Cabernet Franc Colonia Altos de Cufré Reserva 2022 |
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Estigma Pinot Noir Colonia Reserva 2022 |
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Estigma Tannat Colonia Altos de Cufré Reserva 2022 |
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Familia Bresesti Chardonnay Sauvignon Gris Albarino Canelones Blend 2021 |
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Familia Dardanelli Albarińo Canelones 2022 |
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Familia Dardanelli Cabernet Sauvignon Canelones Constante Gran Reserva 2020 |
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Familia Deicas Cabernet Sauvignon Uruguay Atlántico Sur 2021 |
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Finca Las Violetas Tannat Petit Verdot Merlot Canelones Blend 2020 |
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Hacienda del Sacramento Tannat Merlot Colonia 2021 |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Cabernet Franc Colonia Estate 2021 |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Chardonnay Colonia Cuna de Piedra Reserva Roble 2021 |
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Marichal Cabernet Sauvignon Canelones Periplo 2020 |
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Montes Toscanini Cabernet Sauvignon Canelones Las Piedras Familiar Reserva 2021 |
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Montes Toscanini Canelones Criado en Roble Blend 2020 |
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Montes Toscanini Canelones Las Piedras Crudo Barricado Blend 2021 |
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Montes Toscanini Tannat Canelones Crudo 1 2022 |
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Montes Toscanini Tannat Canelones Las Piedras Criado En Roble 2020 |
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Montes Toscanini Tannat Canelones Las Piedras Familiar Reserva 2021 |
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Narbona Uruguay Blend 004 2020 |
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Pizzorno Pinot Noir Canelones Reserva 2021 |
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Proyecto Nakkal Canelones An For 2021 |
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Proyecto Nakkal Canelones An For Orange 2022 |
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Pueblo del Sol Tannat Canelones Roble 2021 |
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Sacromonte Cabernet Sauvignon Maldonado 2022 |
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Sacromonte Maldonado Sierra de Carapé Orange Rosé 2021 |
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Sacromonte Tannat Maldonado Sierra de Carapé Reserva 2020 |
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Sierra Oriental Cabernet Sauvignon Maldonado Paraje José Ignacio Reserva 2021 |
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Viña Edén Maldonado Pueblo Edén Methode Champenoise Brut |
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Viña Edén Tannat Maldonado Pueblo Edén Cemento Kosher 2021 |
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Viña Salort Tannat Marselan Canelones Reserva 2020 |
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Antigua Bodega Stagnari Tannat Canelones Pedregal Roble 2020 |
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Bodega Cerro Chapeu Uruguay Castel Pujol Folklore Carbónica 2022 |
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Bodega Spinoglio Tannat Montevideo SIn Barrica 2021 |
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Bodegones del Sur Tannat Juanicó 2022 |
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De Lucca Marsanne Canelones Reserve 2022 |
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Don Pascual Albariño Uruguay Coastal White Blend 2022 |
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Don Pascual Tannat Uruguay Varietal 2021 |
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Familia Dardanelli Canelones Blend de Tannat 2021 |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Tannat Uruguay Cuna de Piedra Estate 2021 |
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Los Cerros de San Juan Tannat Uruguay Cuna de Piedra Reserva Roble Single Vineyard 2020 |
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Marichal Pinot Noir Canelones Periplo Sentire 2020 |
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Montes Toscanini Canelones Crudo 6 Roble Blend 2022 |
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Narbona Tannat Cabernet Franc Uruguay Puerto Carmelo 2022 |
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Proyecto Nakkal Muscat Ottonel Canelones Simple Pet Nat Blanco 2022 |
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Proyecto Nakkal Tannat Canelones Suelto 2021 |
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Pueblo del Sol Tannat Uruguay Ultra 2021 |
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Viña Edén Tannat Maldonado Pueblo Edén Kosher 2021 |
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Bodega Cerro Chapeu Chardonnay Uruguay Reserva 2022 |
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Bodega Cerro Chapeu Uruguay Castel Pujol Folklore Pet Nat 2022 |
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Braccobosca Merlot Canelones Silvestre 2022 |
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Don Pascual Tannat Merlot Uruguay 2021 |
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Familia Bresesti Syrah Sangiovese Pinot Noir Canelones Las Violetas Blend Rosé 2021 |
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Familia Dardanelli Canelones Blend de Barricas Family Reserve |
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Familia Deicas Uruguay Atlántico Sur Rosé 2022 |
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Hacienda del Sacramento Tannat Colonia 2022 |
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Marichal Albarińo Canelones Periplo 2022 |
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Marichal Sauvignon Blanc Canelones Periplo 2022 |
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Narbona Tannat Uruguay Puerto Carmelo 2022 |
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Proyecto Nakkal Tannat Canelones Simple Pet Nat Rosé 2021 |
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Pueblo del Sol Malbec Uruguay Blend 2022 |
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Pueblo del Sol Pinot Noir Uruguay 2021 |
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Viña Edén Maldonado Espumoso Natural Méthode Champenoise |
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Viña Salort Uruguay Extra Brut |
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Antigua Bodega Stagnari Tannat Merlot Canelones Pedregal Roble 2020 |
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Familia Dardanelli Tannat Canelones Constante Gran Reserva 2020 |
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Marichal Tannat Canelones Periplo 2020 |
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Marichal Tannat Canelones Periplo Rosé 2022 |
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Braccobosca Merlot Ugni Blanc Canelones La Revuelta de Clarete 2022 |
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De Lucca Aglianico Canelones El Colorado 2019 |
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Proyecto Nakkal Merlot Canelones Suelto 2021 |
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