I had a strong sense of déjà vu when I dined at Mirazur recently, the three-star Michelin restaurant in Menton, France, recently named the best restaurant in the world by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
It reminded me of the time I first ate the food of chef superstar Alain Ducasse at Le Louis XV restaurant at the Hotel de Paris Monte-Carlo in Monaco for a cover story for The Wine Spectator more than 25 years ago.
The food at Mirazur was so direct, real and focused on the ingredients. There was not a hint of the ‘molecular’ creations of past so-called great kitchens or the minimalized cuisines in fashion today.
It was just well selected and well executed food with a Mediterranean touch – greatly satisfying. Mirazur, like the early days of Le Louis XV, produces food that convinces with every bite. Is owner Chef Mauro Colagreco the new Ducasse? Colagreco worked for Ducasse as well as the late Bernard Loiseau and Alain Passard, among others.
All the dishes at Mirazur were simply presented and the flavors focused on the incredible ingredients that were perfectly combined. A salad of thinly sliced zucchini with succulent San Remo prawns and oscietra caviar was tangy and salty with a sweetness to the shellfish and crunchy texture, while a fricassee of shellfish with pesto made from basil that was grown in the restaurant’s garden was rich and creamy. But take a look at the photos in this post to get a better sense of these dishes.
The wine list was good but not great, with a range of French wines from all over the country, though the focus was mostly on blue chip Bordeaux and collector Burgundies. I was very pleased to see several pages of Argentine wines with lots of highly rated bottles, like the best of Catena and Enemigo. I was sorry they didn’t have the Enemigo Mendoza Chardonnay 2015 when I ordered it!
I also found it amazing that chef/owner Mauro Colagreco, originally from just outside of Buenos Aires, said he didn’t think it was a big deal when I asked him about his coveted three stars from the French Michelin guide. He has so many accolades now, I suppose he’s getting used to the attention.
The meal and the whole experience was thoroughly satisfying, relaxed and fun. I am not a fan of stiff and formal fine dining these days. Perhaps times are changing in the world’s fine dining cathedrals? I look forward to visiting Mirazur again! – James Suckling, CEO and editor
Could Chef Mauro Colagreco be the new Alain Ducasse?
