Top 100 Wines of France 2020

The Domaine Weinbach Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine 2018, our No. 1 French wine for 2020, along with our No. 2, the Famille Hugel Riesling Alsace Schoelhammer 2010, and some of the other top quality rieslings we tasted from Alsace this year.

It’s crazy to think that I didn’t get to France to taste wines and visit wineries and winemakers this year due to the pandemic. I have been to France every year, many times a year, since 1983 as a journalist and wine critic. I probably spend about six weeks a year there normally.

Nonetheless, we managed to rate more than 3,100 French wines over the last 12 months. Most of the wines, about 2,100, were Bordeaux. This included about 1,000 samples of 2017 from bottle and another 1,100 of 2019 barrel samples. In total, we rated almost 19,000 wines from all over the world since last December.

 

Read more: All our 2019 en primeur articles and Zoom tastings

I don’t think I have to make an excuse for tasting so many wines from Bordeaux. It remains the benchmark of France, particularly in Asia, where I am based. Hong Kong is the No. 1 export market for Bordeaux today. Also, Bordeaux remains a reference point for me for judging fine wines with my history of drinking it with my father in the 1970s and 1980s and my early transition as a journalist to a wine critic in the 1980s in France. I lived in Paris in the mid-1980s.

However, this year I decided to include more wines in our Top 100 of France from other appellations including Alsace, Beaujolais, Burgundy, Champagne, Rhone and a few others. I only wish we had tasted more wines from the Rhone Valley, Loire Valley, Champagne and the South. Let’s hope that we can all travel more freely next year and visit France!

 

James tastes the Burgundy wines of Mark Haisma with importer Jason Ginsberg in Hong Kong.

Also, several regions other than Bordeaux and Burgundy offer fantastic value and provide incredible real and authentic wines with character. This is particularly true with Alsace and Beaujolais. In addition, many of the best producers also adhere to admirable viticulture practices such as organic or biodynamic farming methods, which follow through to more holistic and non-interventionist winemaking. The end results are wines that not only taste wonderful but seem more real and even better for you.

All this is why my French Wine of the Year is the Domaine Weinbach Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine 2018. I have been enjoying the wines of the Faller family since 1985 and their wines’ precision and subtle and complex character are so enticing. The Cuvée Ste. Catherine Riesling from the great granite soils of the Schlossberg Grand Cru is a long-time favorite. And the 2018 is one of the best ever, although I can’t wait to taste the 2019 in bottle since the vintage is already legendary for the region! The wine also comes from biodynamically farmed vineyards, which are Demeter certified. It’s hand-made in the cellar with indigenous yeasts and aged in old large oak casks.

“We do our best to follow the traditions of our family and region in our winemaking,” said Catherine Faller, the head of the domain last year in a Lalique lunch for the top winemakers of the region. I make my range of wine glasses at the famous French crystal firm of Lalique in the town of Wingen-sur-Moder in Alsace and every other year we organize a lunch for top winemakers of the region.

Read more: Burgundy spotlight on vintage 2019 and a trio of warm vintages 

James has always loved the clarity and honesty of the wines of Château Thivin and the Château Thivin Côte-de-Brouilly Clos Bertrand 2018 is the the No. 10 wine in our list this year. It sells for about $35 a bottle.

The Domaine Weinbach Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine 2018 really is a masterpiece in dry Riesling with intensity and brightness combining with an incredible array of exotic fruit character with slate and spice undertones from the unique slate soils of the great grand cru vineyard.

Our No. 2 wine, the Famille Hugel Riesling Alsace Schoelhammer 2010, is also a great dry riesling from a great grand cru – the Schoenenbourg. The fact that it is released late, when the Hugel family deem it ready to drink, makes it even better. It’s from amazing vineyards rooted in clay marl soils and the wine acts like a beacon shining its uniqueness and character. Perhaps it’s what gives it the “earthy magic” aromas and flavors we often find in the wine.

The No. 5 Domaine Valentin Zusslin Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2017 is equally compelling with an incredible subtlety and minerality that just brings you back for glass after glass. The Zusslin family are dedicated advocates of biodynamic farming and low intervention winemaking. Their riesling from the grand cru of Pfingstberg is always so intense and age-worthy.

Five of the other Top 10 in the list are Bordeaux with everything from a $60 a bottle Sauternes, Château Rieussec Sauternes 2017 (No. 4) to the sublime first growths of Château d’Yquem 2017 (No. 6) and Château Margaux 2017 (No. 7) at around $250 and $400 a bottle respectively. The great Pomerol of Château Trotanoy was at No. 3 with superb balance and a relatively reasonable price of $180 a bottle for the most recent vintage on the market, 2017. And I couldn’t help but include the incredible Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2017 at No. 9, which is one of France’s great age-worthy whites at $70 a bottle. The 2017 vintage was a very good to outstanding quality year with many wines that are drinkable at an early age compared to the current greats such as 2019, 2018, 2016 and 2015. So don’t miss out on the best from them.

Read more: Alsace’s fireworks and crisis

James tastes two Henri Giraud Champagnes over Zoom with Cellar Master Sebastien Legolvet and Sales Director Stephane Barlerin. You can check out the Zoom conversation here.

I had to include a Champagne in this year’s top 10 list from France and I know it’s expensive at over $400 a bottle but it’s phenomenal quality. The Henri Giraud Champagne Argonne Brut 2012 is so dense and powerful yet it remains incredibly agile. The selection of wines that are barrel fermented and aged that go into this Champagne are incredible and give the wine an uncanny balance of energy and richness The wine is so fabulous to drink now but I think it will age incredibly well and highlights the concept of great Champagne being a great wine for the cellar first.

Finally, this is the first time we have included a Beaujolais in our Top 10 wines from France and it should have been sooner. I am a huge fan of the region with its incredible culture of old vines and real winemakers. I drink Beaujolais every week in Hong Kong and just love the authenticity of the wines and the fantastic value. The clarity and honesty of the wines of Château Thivin have long impressed me and the Château Thivin Côte-de-Brouilly Clos Bertrand 2018 may be the best wine they have ever made in my opinion. It’s the No. 10 wine and sells for about $35 a bottle. I hope you enjoy this year’s list of our Top 100 wines rated from France. Please remember that it is by no means comprehensive but only reflects what we tasted and rated this year at JamesSuckling.com.

– James Suckling, editor & CEO

Tasting Notes

1
Domaine Weinbach Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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2
Famille Hugel Riesling Alsace Schoelhammer 2010

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2010
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3
Château Trotanoy Pomerol 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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4
Château Rieussec Sauternes 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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5
Domaine Valentin Zusslin Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2017

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2017
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6
Château d'Yquem Sauternes 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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7
Château Margaux Margaux 2017

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2017
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8
Henri Giraud Champagne Argonne Brut 2012

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage 2012
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9
Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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10
Château Thivin Côte-de-Brouilly Clos Bertrand 2018

Country France
Region Beaujolais
Vintage 2018
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11
Albert Mann Pinot Noir Alsace Grand H 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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12
Château Cos d'Estournel St.-Estèphe 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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13
Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris Alsace Cuvée Ste. Catherine 2019

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2019
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14
Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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15
Dom Pérignon Champagne 2010

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage 2010
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16
Aile d'Argent Bordeaux Blanc 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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17
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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18
Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Alsace Grand Cru Hengst 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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19
Domaine Marcel Deiss Alsace Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2017

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2017
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20
Chateau d'Yquem Bordeaux "Y" Ygrec 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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21
Domaine Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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22
Domaine Marcel Deiss Alsace Grand Cru Altenberg Bergheim 2017

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2017
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23
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St.-Julien 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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24
Château L'Église Clinet Pomerol 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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25
Albert Mann Pinot Noir Alsace Les Saintes Claires 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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26
Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-Léognan 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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27
Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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28
Domaine Valentin Zusslin Pinot Noir Alsace Bollenberg Luft 2017

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2017
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29
Trimbach Riesling Alsace Clos Ste. Hune 2016

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2016
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30
Domaine Ostertag Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Muenchberg 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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31
Château Léoville Las Cases St.-Julien 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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32
Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux Bordeaux Blanc 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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33
Thibault Liger-Belair Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Les Languettes 2017

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2017
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34
Krug Champagne Rosé 24ème Edition

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage No Vintage
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35
Château Palmer Margaux 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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36
Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-Leognan Blanc 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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37
Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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38
Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut 2006

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage 2006
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39
Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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40
Bouchard Père & Fils Echézeaux Grand Cru Domaine 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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41
Château Pavie St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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42
Château Montrose St.-Estèphe 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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43
Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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44
L’If St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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45
Famille Hugel Gewurztraminer Alsace Vendange Tardive 2012

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2012
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46
Cassagne et Vitailles Terrasses du Larzac Pesoul 2016

Country France
Region Languedoc-Roussillon
Vintage 2016
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47
Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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48
Château Lafleur Pomerol 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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49
Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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50
Louis Latour Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru Les Quatre Journaux 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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51
Château Pétrus Pomerol 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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52
Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py 2018

Country France
Region Beaujolais
Vintage 2018
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53
Muré Riesling Alsace Clos Saint Landelin 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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54
Dirler-Cadé Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Kitterlé 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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55
Château Suau Sauternes 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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56
Krug Champagne Grande Cuvée 168ème Edition

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage No Vintage
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57
Château Coutet Barsac 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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58
M. & C. Lapierre Morgon 2019

Country France
Region Beaujolais
Vintage 2019
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59
Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie Domaine des Pierrelles 2018

Country France
Region Rhone Valley
Vintage 2018
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60
Muré Pinot Noir Alsace Clos Saint Landelin 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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61
Jean Foillard Morgon Eponym 2018

Country France
Region Beaujolais
Vintage 2018
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62
Henri Giraud Champagne Aÿ Grand Cru MV15 Brut

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage No Vintage
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63
Edouard Delaunay Corton Grand Cru 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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64
La Mondotte St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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65
Château Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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66
Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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67
Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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68
William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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69
Château d'Esclans Côtes de Provence Les Clans Rosé 2019

Country France
Region Provence
Vintage 2019
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70
Mas del Périé Malbec Cahors Amphore 2019

Country France
Region South West
Vintage 2019
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71
Albert Bichot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Domaine du Clos Frantin 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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72
Château Larcis Ducasse St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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73
Château Bélair-Monange St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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74
Domaine Faiveley Corton Grand Cru Clos des Cortons Faiveley 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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75
Jean-Claude Lapalu Beaujolais-Villages Tentation 2019

Country France
Region Beaujolais
Vintage 2019
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76
Château Valandraud St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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77
Château Thivin Côte-de-Brouilly Cuvée la Chapelle 2019

Country France
Region Beaujolais
Vintage 2019
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78
Château Pavie-Decesse St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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79
Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot Clos des Ursules 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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80
La Soufrandière Pouilly-Fuissé Climat Au Vignerais 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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81
Louis Roederer Champagne Rosé Millèsime 2014

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage 2014
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82
Joseph Perrier Champagne Cuvée Royale Brut Nature

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage No Vintage
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83
William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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84
Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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85
Domaine de Baronarques Limoux 2018

Country France
Region Languedoc
Vintage 2018
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86
Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas Domaine de Saint Pierre 2018

Country France
Region Rhone Valley
Vintage 2018
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87
Château Croix de Labrie St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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88
Château Troplong Mondot St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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89
Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse Monopole 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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90
Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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91
Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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92
Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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93
Château Trottevieille St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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94
Louis Jadot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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95
Albert Bichot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Domaine du Pavillon 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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96
Château Angélus St.-Emilion 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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97
Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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98
Georges Glantenay Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens-Hauts 2017

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2017
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99
Louis Latour Corton Grand Cru Grancey 2018

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2018
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100
Château Cos d'Estournel Bordeaux Blanc 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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