Top 100 Australian Wines of 2017
The breadth of Australia’s wine offerings continues to expand and surprise us as there is an impressive array of emerging and established producers. As you go through the list, you’ll find that storied provenance and terroir loom large in this year’s Top 100 Australian Wines of 2017.
Australia’s ultimate single-vineyard wine, Henschke Shiraz Eden Valley Hill of Grace Vineyard 2012, is the Australian Wine of the Year 2017. As an excellent example of 2012 vintage, the wine soars to impressive heights. With vines dating back to the 1860s, the vineyard has a carefully managed regime that focuses on marrying biodynamically farmed grapes with the rich heritage of the site.
Old vines in Australia do not only look impressive, but they can also add layers of complexity to wine.
Old vines also underpin the wines of Sami-Odi, our No. 2 Aussie wine, drawing on the Hoffmann family’s Ebenezer vineyard plantings that date back to the mid 1800s. With a superb understanding of great wines and a worldly palate, winemaker Fraser McKinley is penning a contemporary script of Barossa Valley wine while working with ancient vines. Among the most compelling Australian wines made today, these wines are absolutely exceptional. Seek them out if you haven’t already.
The Yarra Valley makes a strong showing in the chardonnay ranks again this year with producers such as Oakridge and Giant Steps, as each of these winemakers continues to deliver diamond-like luster and clarity. However, there are also a number of cabernet-based reds this year from the region, and most notably, the exceptional Mount Mary Yarra Valley Quintet 2015 (No. 10). As the custodian of his grandfather’s vineyard, David Middleton’s dedication to the late Dr. John Middleton’s original vision is a story that inspires generations of Australian winemaker families.
There is a delectable selection of Chardonnay over at Vasse Felix, and we tasted them all before making the final call.
There are old and new players leading the pinot noir ranks; namely, the world-class, groundbreaking Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Gippsland Reserve 2015 (No. 5). On the other hand, Jim Chatto’s Huon Valley vineyard is a much newer project in Tasmania, and its two pinot noirs score high on the upper rankings of this year’s list at No. 19 and No. 47. Chatto’s 2016 wines are composed with clever refinement, setting a course for the future of this site. Not only is he one of the most insightful and talented winemakers in Australia, but he has also been appointed as the chief winemaker at McWilliams and Pipers Brook.
James tasted numerous bottles of great wines to curate this year’s Top 100 Australian Wines of 2017.
Margaret River has a powerful presence again this year, especially with Vasse Felix’s Tom Cullity 2015 (No. 4). Single-site and cabernet-dominated, the wine makes a very impressive case for the role of malbec in building a regal depth. The second wine that made it on the list is the Vasse Felix Chardonnay Margaret River Heytesbury 2016 (No.17), which adds further weight to the vineyard’s already remarkable chardonnay record. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better Australian chardonnay producer, and perhaps this is a story to investigate in 2018! Penfolds is most certainly in the running for that title, though, and their Yattarna 2015 is probably the best edition of this white wine produced to date. This was our No. 6 Aussie wine for 2017 after all.
There are some new names on the list too, as we also recognize young talents who strive to shape the future of great Australian wine. There’s something here for every palate, so please enjoy the read and happy holidays. See you in 2018! — Nick Stock, Contributing Editor