Living in Hong Kong for most of the year now, I am lucky enough to taste many rare and fine wines. Part of it is thanks to generous wine-collecting friends, but I also taste a lot of wine during auctions, of which, as you know, Hong Kong has many.
I tried to pick perfect wines for My Top 10 Rare Collectibles in 2013. Why settle for less when you are talking about rarity?
I also tried to pick wines that were surprises or benchmarks. For example, I was amazed this year by the perfect bottle of 1961 Gaja Barbaresco after so many bad bottles in the past, while the 1982 Mouton Rothschild and 1989 Haut-Brion remain benchmarks for great modern-day wines.
My Rare Collectible Wine of the Year is one that people can still buy and that many have forgotten about – 1998 Cheval-Blanc. The wine is phenomenal now to drink but still has a fabulous future ahead of it. Moreover, it sells for substantially less than other top modern vintages. For example, Wine-Searcher gives an average price of $699 a bottle while the 2000 is listed at $1,193 and the 2005 at $954. I think the 1998 Cheval is the new 1990 or 1982. It’s a wine for every serious wine collector’s cellar.
I hope you enjoy my list.
1. 1998 Château Cheval-Blanc Saint-Émilion: Winemaker Pierre Lurton has always said that the 1998 was his best modern Cheval-Blanc (perhaps 2010 is better). Pierre started at Cheval in 1994. I have always found it better than 2000 and 2005, although the 2001 comes close in quality. I have been lucky enough to drink 1998 a number of times, and it is finally coming into its own. It shows such superb depth of fruit with dried berries, spices and wet earth character. It’s full-bodied and layered with polished tannins. 100 points
2. 1961 Gaja Barbaresco: Good bottles of aged Gaja are hard to come by, except when they originate straight from the cellars of the Gaja family in Barbaresco, or some other special cellar. Too many poorly stored old Gajas are still in the market, so I was blown away when I drank this amazing bottle of 1961 Barbaresco in September. It was truly magical, showing aromas of rose petals, strawberries, dried fruits and lemon-rind undertones. It was medium-bodied with super silky tannins and a creamy texture like a perfect Burgundy but with the soulful character of Piedmont. 100 points
3. 1982 Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac: The 1982 First Growth is still the benchmark for great modern wines for many wine lovers around the world, especially in China. I have always debated whether the Mouton-Rothschild or the Latour is the best 1982, but I think my choice has to be the 1982 Mouton. I was lucky enough to drink it three or four times this year in Hong Kong, and I have never been disappointed. It is an incredible wine. It shows superb fruit character still with currants that turn to chocolate, nuts and mint. It’s full-bodied enveloped by velvety soft tannins, and goes on for minutes. 100 points.
4. 1998 Château Petrus Pomerol: The 1998 Petrus is overshadowed by such legends as 1989 and 1990 as well as 1982. But it shouldn’t be. It’s sensational and the wine of the vintage along with Le Pin and Cheval-Blanc. I got the chance to drink a bottle last summer with a friend, and it was stunning. It’s so deep and full of character yet refined and subtle. It showed aromas of wet earth, mushrooms and dark fruits and loads of walnut, chocolate and berry character on the palate. It’s full-bodied, firmly tannic and brightly acidic. Decant two or three hours before serving now, but see all the glory in five or six more years of bottle age. 100 points
5. 1989 Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan: This has always been a perfect wine. I remember tasting it from barrel in 1990 in Bordeaux, and it was as phenomenal then as it is now. It shows such dense fruit with tobacco, sweet fruit, chocolate and toasted walnuts plus hints of flowers. It’s full-bodied, velvety textured and you get hints of almonds and chocolate on the aftertaste. 100 points
6. 1989 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape: This is the benchmark Rayas for me even though some people may say that the 1978 is better. It’s the purity of the grenache fruit that is so astounding. It smells of fresh strawberries and flowers and the palate is equally compelling. The wine is dense and flavorful yet there’s a refined and elegant structure too. I only wish that current vintages were as exciting from this legendary Châteauneuf producer. 100 points
7. 1955 Dow’s Vintage Port: A long time favorite, I remember drinking this in the late 1980s and thinking that it showed perfect balance and finesse. The great news is that it never changed. It’s an extraordinary Port showing beautiful, chocolate-coated berries throughout. It’s full-bodied, medium sweet with chewy tannins. There are smoky undertones too as well as nuts and dried fruits on the finish. 100 points
8. 1985 Trimbach Riesling Alsace Clos Ste. Hune: This is maybe my favorite white wine on earth and it ages incredibly well. The single vineyard brings out such depth and intensity in a great vintage such as 1985. I couldn’t believe the freshness and intensity to this wine with an amazing raciness of dried lemons and minerals and hints of petrol character. What complexity. The flavors continue for minutes on the palate. 100 points
9. 1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet: What astounded me about this white was its texture and density. If I closed my eyes, the mouthfeel was more like a red with layers of fruit and a chewy texture. It shows so much apple, cream, dried pineapple and apricot character. Yet it’s agile and lively in style and not overdone. It’s a wine that surprises you with each sip. Some believe that the 1978 DRC Montrachet is the best ever but I have my doubts after tasting this extraordinary white. 100 points
10. 1945 Château d’Yquem Sauternes: Some other vintages of Yquem are said to be better than the 1945 such as 1921 or even 1947 – not to mention 2001, but this bottle I was lucky enough to taste was mind blowing. It’s so dense and rich with amazing aromas and flavors of dried apricots, pineapple and caramel. It’s full-bodied with a very sweet palate and a phenomenal finish. It’s humbling to think that the grapes were picked just after the end of the Second World War. Production must have been tiny. 100 points
One thought on “My Top 10 Rare Collectible Wines In 2013”