My Article: The Purpose of Bordeaux

Too much is said and written about investment in Bordeaux, whether it’s 2012 en primeur or buying top labels from the region. The real purpose of outstanding bottles from France’s premier wine region is to open and enjoy them with family and friends.

I was thinking about this last night in Hong Kong when I was at a Korean restaurant in Wan Chai called Myung Ga with my fiancee, my son and a couple of friends. We were drinking bottles of 2009 Clerc Milon and 2000 Gloria with our various dishes, which included barbecued steak wrapped in sesame leaves with red bean sauce and garlic, as well as boiled octopus in a spicy soup with noodles. There was also an array of small dishes on the table including kimchi, sweet potato, fermented beans and various preserved vegetables.

The wines were absolutely delicious and their relatively low alcohol content, fine tannins and fresh acidity went wonderfully with the food. The reds were flavorful but not obvious and overpowering. Their tannic and acid tension kept our palates fresh and attentive. That slight austerity that marks a wonderful bottle of Bordeaux made the reds so drinkable. Everyone kept asking for more wine.

It was fun to drink the 2009 Clerc Milon, thinking that the wine would be so much better in 10 or 15 years, but enjoying every second of drinking such a beautiful wine when it was young. The 2009 vintage is very special indeed in that it produced such beautiful wines to drink in their youth.

The 2000 Gloria showed a mature Bordeaux character now, but was still relatively youthful. Reds from the superb 2000 vintage are now drinking beautifully, even the top names.

Here are my tasting notes for both wines.

2009 Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac: This wine shows aromas of licorice, raspberries and tar. Full body and very silky with dense tannins, yet the bright fruits soften the wine. So delicious and refined. Gorgeous now, but much better in 2018. 94

2000 Chateau Gloria Saint-Julien: This starts off tight and citrusy but opens with air to a lively and decadent red with licorice, dried fruits, forest floor and floral character. Medium body, attractive balance and tension, and a delicious finish. 92

The 2009 Clerc sells for about $70 a bottle and the 2000 Gloria for $80. Of course, these are not inexpensive wines, but in the world of fine wine they are reasonably priced.

Ultimately, this is what Bordeaux is about, regardless of the disinterest in 2012 en primeur or the lack of investment in blue chip labels from the region.