Menu

HOME > REPORTS

My Article: The Purpose of Bordeaux

Sunday, May 26, 2013

Too much is said and written about investment in Bordeaux, whether it’s 2012 en primeur or buying top labels from the region. The real purpose of outstanding bottles from France’s premier wine region is to open and enjoy them with family and friends.

I was thinking about this last night in Hong Kong when I was at a Korean restaurant in Wan Chai called Myung Ga with my fiancee, my son and a couple of friends. We were drinking bottles of 2009 Clerc Milon and 2000 Gloria with our various dishes, which included barbecued steak wrapped in sesame leaves with red bean sauce and garlic, as well as boiled octopus in a spicy soup with noodles. There was also an array of small dishes on the table including kimchi, sweet potato, fermented beans and various preserved vegetables.

The wines were absolutely delicious and their relatively low alcohol content, fine tannins and fresh acidity went wonderfully with the food. The reds were flavorful but not obvious and overpowering. Their tannic and acid tension kept our palates fresh and attentive. That slight austerity that marks a wonderful bottle of Bordeaux made the reds so drinkable. Everyone kept asking for more wine.

It was fun to drink the 2009 Clerc Milon, thinking that the wine would be so much better in 10 or 15 years, but enjoying every second of drinking such a beautiful wine when it was young. The 2009 vintage is very special indeed in that it produced such beautiful wines to drink in their youth.

The 2000 Gloria showed a mature Bordeaux character now, but was still relatively youthful. Reds from the superb 2000 vintage are now drinking beautifully, even the top names.

Here are my tasting notes for both wines.

2009 Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac: This wine shows aromas of licorice, raspberries and tar. Full body and very silky with dense tannins, yet the bright fruits soften the wine. So delicious and refined. Gorgeous now, but much better in 2018. 94

2000 Chateau Gloria Saint-Julien: This starts off tight and citrusy but opens with air to a lively and decadent red with licorice, dried fruits, forest floor and floral character. Medium body, attractive balance and tension, and a delicious finish. 92

The 2009 Clerc sells for about $70 a bottle and the 2000 Gloria for $80. Of course, these are not inexpensive wines, but in the world of fine wine they are reasonably priced.

Ultimately, this is what Bordeaux is about, regardless of the disinterest in 2012 en primeur or the lack of investment in blue chip labels from the region.

SHARE ON:
FacebookTwitterLinkedInEmail

Leave comment

You must be logged in to post comment. LOG IN

5 thoughts on “My Article: The Purpose of Bordeaux”

  1. mauiguy says:
    Wednesday, May 29, 2013 at 8:33 am
    Love Bordeaux and enjoy your reviews of wines from this region the most. I found the `09 Clerc Milon at our local Costco and picked up a few bottles. Can't wait to try it, but wait I will!
  2. vinoservant says:
    Friday, May 31, 2013 at 1:11 am
    James - I would love to hear you talk about your top 10 Cru Bourgeois Estates. I would also be interested to hear about your top 20 - 25 Classified Growths (excluding the first growths). On average, I probably drink 3 to 4 bottles of Bordeaux each week. I don't have a technical tasting background, but I find the wines to be the most versatile and consistent. In addition, and most importantly, you can buy them.
  3. JOlie says:
    Saturday, June 1, 2013 at 9:09 am
    Clerc Millon 2009, $70 a bottle? That was major splurge for me over a year ago. It cost me $110 retail then in Total Wine. Good wine, but not like it was amazing.. At least not $110 worth to me.
  4. themate says:
    Saturday, June 29, 2013 at 3:24 am
    I agree James, there's nothing like an excellent bottle of Bordeaux with your closest friends and family. I used to not purchase Bordeaux because of the elitist demeanor and overall perception of arrogance that’s attached to these wines. However, as the wine world expands, I have found many examples of Bordeaux from less known producers and regions. I don’t think too many people care about the business of wine aside from that special select group referred to as “Ca-billionaires”. And I often think that expensive wines are not really all that much better than say a smaller producer’s flagship wine, ranging from $50-$100 (that they have poured their heart and soul into). I think ultra-expensive wine from the traditional wineries and first growths are made for a purpose – simply to fulfill the desires of crazy rich dudes that probably aren’t impressed by much…..except if it costs soooooo much, and only they can afford it…..well then, they have something special….oooooooo. They bought an image or a feeling or exclusivity, not a wine.
  5. themate says:
    Saturday, June 29, 2013 at 3:27 am
    An excellent bottle of Bordeaux with your closest friends and family is a great experience. I used to not purchase Bordeaux because of the elitist demeanor and overall perception of arrogance that’s attached to these wines. However, as the wine world expands, I have found many examples of Bordeaux from less known producers and regions. I don’t think too many people care about the business of wine aside from that special select group referred to as “billionaires”. And I often think that expensive wines are not really all that much better than say a smaller producer’s flagship wine, ranging from $50-$100 (that they poured their heart and soul into). I think ultra-expensive wine from the traditional wineries and first growths are made for a purpose – simply to fulfill the desires of crazy rich dudes that probably aren’t impressed by much…..except if it costs soooooo much, and only they can afford it…..well then, they have something special. Seems to me like they bought an image or a feeling or exclusivity, not a wine.