Tasting Of Champagne Salon's Latest 2004 Vintage

In the scheme of not only Champagne, but of wine in general, Salon sits in a very privileged place. A jewel in the Côte des Blancs with the sole mission to produce one single cuvée, this latest 2004 release is only the 39th vintage deemed worthy in the years since creation in 1911 by the late Aimé Salon.

Salon 2004 has the dubious honor of following one of the most exciting vintages in its history, the electrifyingly intense 2002. And it is a very different year. Whereas 2002 was so singular and razor-like and piercing (99 points), 2004 has complexity, richness and purity, it is playful and seductive and it builds in layers and phases (98 points).

The 2004 growing season started slowly but it was soon evident that crops were healthy so Salon took the decision to make a green harvest in July to taper their yields and the season played out to deliver exceptional ripeness with good acid retention, all of which is evidenced in the resulting wine.

The 10 years spent in the cellar in Mesnil-sur-Oger has delivered an entrancing interplay between characters of elegance and purity, cast alongside characters that are richer, more hedonistic and powerful. The resulting sensation is as much about the narrative of the season and the time spent building in the cellar. 

Click here to see the rating of Salon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs 2004 if you are a subscriber. 

Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.