Switzerland Annual Report: Vibrant Mountain Wines and the Pursuit of Peak Flavor

The view from the top of Castello di Morcote’s vineyards across Lago di Lugano in southern Switzerland looking over the border into Italy. (Photos by JamesSuckling.com)

Swiss wine is often ignored because it’s such a small winegrowing nation compared with its neighbors France and Italy. Even its other neighbors, Germany and Austria, have much larger vineyard areas than Switzerland’s 15,000 hectares. That’s a tenth the size of Bordeaux.

However, this isn’t the main reason Swiss wines receive scant attention from international consumers, sommeliers and the media. The fundamental problem is the widespread perception that Swiss wine is mostly thin and bland dry whites from the chasselas grape, which are often sold under the name Fendant.

This view is probably what lies behind the recent decision by one of our competitors not to cover Switzerland at all. We are moving in the opposite direction because the statistics prove that view to be factually incorrect and outdated. According to Swiss government statistics from 2020, the most widely planted grape variety in Switzerland today is pinot noir, with 3,875 hectares. For us that was a good reason to focus on Swiss pinot noir and to look at the wines from other grape varieties the leading pinot noir producers make.

We wouldn’t be surprised if many of you are still a bit skeptical of Swiss wines. If that’s the case we recommend you try the Gantenbein Pinot Noir Graubünden 2019, the highest-rated pinot noir in this report. When you do, hang on to your hat, because this Alpine masterpiece is equal for many to the Grand Cru wines of Burgundy. The same producer scored just as highly with their Gantenbein Chardonnay Graubünden 2019.

And take a look at the tasting notes below and you will see that we also found great pinot noirs from Fromm (five of them!), Donatsch and Hermann in German-speaking Graubunden, plus Schloss Bachtobel in Thurgau and Jean-Rene Germanier in the Valais region – the Swiss section of the Rhone Valley that is mostly French-speaking.

Gantenbein Winery makes expressive pinot noirs and chardonnays.
Left: Gilles Besse, the winemaker and guiding spirit at Jean-Rene Germanier in the Valais. | Right: The Jean-René Germanier Syrah Valais Cayas Reserve 2018 and 2019.

We were also blown away by the Jean-René Germanier Syrah Valais Cayas Reserve 2018, a spectacular syrah you could almost mistake for a top Cornas from a good, but not hot, vintage. In contrast to the Gantenbein wines and to Cornas, this is not an expensive wine.

Cayas has been impressive for many years, particularly since winemaker Gilles Besse extended the barrel maturation with the 2013 vintage from one year to two years. Interestingly, the extra time in oak did not make Cayas more oaky. In the past, too much oak was quite often a problem with Swiss syrahs. Besse said that since extending barrel maturation, “the wine is more mature, complex and less oaky when released.”

READ MORE: OUR TOP 100 WINES OF 2021

The merlot vineyards of Castello di Morcote in southern Ticino are planted on volcanic rock.

Considering that just over a hundred wines were tasted, this is an impressive strike rate and another reason for us to pursue the development of Swiss wines further in the coming years.

Given that 25 red grape varieties and 28 white grape varieties have vineyard areas of more than 10 hectares, it is impossible to make generalized statements about Swiss wines that go beyond the simple observation that because of the mountains (Jura and Alps) this is a relatively cool-climate location.

That makes pinot noir a good fit. As Gantenbein Winery owner Daniel Gantenbein told me, “in Graubunden in the summer we generally have warm, but not hot days, then cool nights. This is very good for pinot noir and chardonnay.” German-speaking Graubunden lies at the eastern tip of Switzerland.

Weingut Fromm in Graubunden made five impressive pinot noirs we rated for this report.

The mountains also mean that some parts of Switzerland, like the Valais, remained rather isolated for a long time, which seems to be one factor that led to the development of a string of indigenous grape varieties.

The white petite arvine with 235 hectares is the most important of these, also because of its uniquely salty taste. And the Jean-René Germanier Petite Arvine Valais 2021 proves they can also give delicious wines.

We look forward to bringing you more delicious news from Switzerland in the future.

– Stuart Pigott, Senior Editor

Tasting Notes

Gantenbein Chardonnay Graubünden 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Gantenbein Pinot Noir Graubünden 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Jean-René Germanier Syrah Valais Cayas Reserve 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2018
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Gantenbein Pinot Noir Graubünden 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Schlossgut Bachtobel Pinot Noir Thurgau No. 3 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Thurgau
Vintage 2018
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Soledi Rosso del Ticino Nik1 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Ticino
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Schöpfi 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Schöpfi 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Spielmann 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Gantenbein Chardonnay Graubünden 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Hermann Chardonnay Graubünden Grand Maître 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Hermann Pinot Noir Graubünden Grand Maître 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Jean-René Germanier Pinot Noir Valais Clos de la Couta 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2019
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Jean-René Germanier Syrah Valais Cayas Reserve 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Michel 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Spielmann 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Annatina Pelizzatti Pinot Noir Graubünden Jenins Sélection Barrique 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Castello di Morcote Merlot Ticino Fuoco 2016

Country Switzerland
Region Ticino
Vintage 2016
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Castello di Morcote Merlot Ticino Riserva 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Ticino
Vintage 2018
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Donatsch Pinot Noir Graubünden Malans Unique 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Hermann Chardonnay Graubünden Grand Maître 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Hermann Chardonnay Graubünden Grand Maître 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Hermann Pinot Noir Graubünden Grand Maître 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Jean-René Germanier Amigne Valais Vétroz 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2020
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Jean-René Germanier Heida Valais Clos de la Couta 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2020
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Matthias & Sina Gubler Chardonnay Graubünden Maienfeld 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Möhr-Niggli (Matthias & Sina Gubler) Pinot Noir Graubünden Pilgrim 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Möhr-Niggli (Matthias & Sina Gubler) Pinot Noir Graubünden Pilgrim 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Schlossgut Bachtobel Pinot Noir Thurgau No. 3 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Thurgau
Vintage 2019
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Wegelin Blauburgunder Graubünden Bothmarhalde 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Eichholz Irene Grünenfelder Pinot Noir Graubünden Eichholz 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Eichholz Irene Grünenfelder Pinot Noir Graubünden Eichholz 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Fidler 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Fidler 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Michel 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Annatina Pelizzatti Chardonnay Graubünden Fläsch Halde 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Castello di Morcote Merlot Ticino Riserva 2017

Country Switzerland
Region Ticino
Vintage 2017
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Davaz Chardonnay Graubünden Fläscher Gräba 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Davaz Chardonnay Graubünden Fläscher Gräba 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Donatsch Chardonnay Graubünden Malans Unique 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Hermann Pinot Noir Graubünden Grand Maître 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Jean-René Germanier Amigne de Vétroz Valais Mitis Grain Nobile ConfidenCiel Reserve 2016

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2016
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Jean-René Germanier Cornalin Valais Chamaray 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2018
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Jean-René Germanier Valais Gally 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2019
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Matthias & Sina Gubler Chardonnay Graubünden Maienfeld 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Matthias & Sina Gubler Pinot Noir Graubünden Pilgrim 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Soledi Rosso del Ticino Emiole 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Ticino
Vintage 2019
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Wegelin Blauburgunder Graubünden Scadena 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Wegelin Blauburgunder Graubünden Weisstorkel 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Eichholz Irene Grünenfelder Pinot Noir Graubünden Alte Reben 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Fromm Chardonnay Graubünden Malanser 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Selvenen 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Selvenen 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Winzerei Zur Metzg Pinot Noir Suisse PMG 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Switzerland
Vintage 2018
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Annatina Pelizzatti Chardonnay Graubünden Fläsch Halde 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Annatina Pelizzatti Chardonnay Graubünden Malans 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Annatina Pelizzatti Pinot Noir Graubünden Jenins Sélection Barrique 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Donatsch Chardonnay Graubünden Passion 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Donatsch Completer Graubünden Malanserrebe 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Donatsch Pinot Noir Graubünden Malans Privée 2015

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2015
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Donatsch Pinot Noir Graubünden Malans Unique 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Donatsch Pinot Noir Graubünden Passion 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Jean-René Germanier Fendant Valais Les Terrasses 2021

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2021
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Jean-René Germanier Petite Arvine Valais 2021

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2021
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Jean-René Germanier Syrah Valais 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2020
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Wegelin Chardonnay Graubünden Frassa 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut & Destillerie Lipp Pinot Noir Graubünden Intuive 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Eichholz Irene Grünenfelder Chardonnay Graubünden 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Annatina Pelizzatti Chardonnay Graubünden Malans 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Baumann Weingut Pinot Noir Schaffhausen ZWAA 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Schaffhausen
Vintage 2018
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Baumann Weingut Pinot Noir Schaffhausen ZWAA 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Schaffhausen
Vintage 2019
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Castello di Morcote Merlot Ticino 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Ticino
Vintage 2019
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Davaz Pinot Noir Graubünden Fläscher Uris 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Donatsch Pinot Noir Graubünden Malans Privée 2013

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2013
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Jean-René Germanier Johannisberg Valais Chamoson 2021

Country Switzerland
Region Valais
Vintage 2021
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Wegelin Chardonnay Graubünden Malanser 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Weingut & Destillerie Lipp Pinot Noir Graubünden Intuiva Alles ist Gut. Carina Kunz 2014

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2014
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Weingut & Destillerie Lipp Pinot Noir Graubünden Intuive 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Weingut Eichholz Irene Grünenfelder Chardonnay Graubünden 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut Eichholz Irene Grünenfelder Pinot Noir Graubünden Alte Reben 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Weingut Fromm Pinot Noir Graubünden Malanser 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Winzerei Zur Metzg Pinot Noir Zürich Kirschberg 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Zürich
Vintage 2018
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Baumann Weingut Chardonnay Schaffhausen Classique 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Schaffhausen
Vintage 2019
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Baumann Weingut Pinot Noir Schaffhausen R 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Schaffhausen
Vintage 2018
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Davaz Pinot Noir Graubünden Fläscher Uris 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Donatsch Pinot Noir Graubünden Passion 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Liesch Bioweine Blauburgunder Graubünden Malanser Spätlese 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Liesch Bioweine Chardonnay Graubünden Malanser 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Liesch Weinbau Blauburgunder Graubünden Malanser Barrique MvP 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Wegelin Blauburgunder Graubünden Malanser 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Weingut & Destillerie Lipp Chardonnay Graubünden Quelle. Inspiration. Freude. Carina Lipp-Kunz 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Winzerei Zur Metzg Pinot Noir Zürich Borstig’ Kerl Der Grosse Rot 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Zürich
Vintage 2018
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Baumann Weingut Chardonnay Schaffhausen Classique 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Schaffhausen
Vintage 2020
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Baumann Weingut Pinot Noir Schaffhausen Ann Mee 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Schaffhausen
Vintage 2018
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Liesch Bioweine Blauburgunder Graubünden Malanser Barrique 2018

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2018
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Liesch Weinbau Pinot Noir Switzerland Malanser Der Pionier 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut & Destillerie Lipp Chardonnay Graubünden Quelle. Inspiration. Freude. 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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Weingut & Destillerie Lipp Chardonnay Graubünden Quelle. Inspiration. Freude. Carina Lipp-Kunz 2017

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2017
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Castello di Morcote Ticino Merlot Bianco 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Ticino
Vintage 2020
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Donatsch Pinot Noir Graubünden Tradition 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Liesch Weinbau Graubünden Schiller 2020

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2020
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Liesch Weinbau Blauburgunder Graubünden Malanser Barrique MvP 2019

Country Switzerland
Region Graubünden
Vintage 2019
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