My Article: Roberto Conterno Views, Barolos

I had a fascinating conversation a couple of weeks ago with Roberto Conterno, the winemaker and owner of the legendary Barolo producer, Giacomo Conterno. I tasted in his cellar in Monforte d’Alba, one of the key villages for Barolo.

We tasted a small range of his Barolos, mostly the Cascina Francia, but also a bottle of the 2005 Monfortino Riserva. The man is so dedicated and frank. I have such respect for him. Great winemaker. Check out a video tasting with him and an interview.

For example, he said that he will not make a 2007 Monfortino Riserva, even though the vintage is excellent. “I just didn’t think that the wine had the character of Monfortino,” he said, noting that the entire cask of the wine went into his 2007 Barolo Cascina Francia. “I just didn’t like it. The biggest critic of my wines is not a journalist – it’s me!”

He likes to say that the poor reputation of the 2002 vintage in Barolo is due to me and other wine critics or journalists panning the year. The year was nailed by hail and bad weather in places like La Morra the first week of September, but, “It was beautiful in other parts of Barolo and the good weather lasted through the harvest,” he said.

“I am sure other Barolo producers made some great 2002s, but they didn’t believe in themselves and their wines,” he added, also saying that the 2002, 2006 and 2010 were the most tannic Barolo years of recent. He is worried that some people overdo the tannins in their wines.

His 2002 Monfortino Riserva is superb. It’s hard to believe it spent eight years in cask. I have been lucky to drink it a number of times in the last month and it shows such depth and finesse, with lots of subtle berry and coffee character that turns to roses and tar. 97 points.

We tasted a handful of wines in his cellar including: 2008 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia, 2007 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia, and 2005 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia. We also tasted the 2005 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva.

The day before, I bought a bottle of the 2000 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva (this was posted incorrectly as Cascina Francia)  with friends for dinner and I scored it 99 points. Here is my note: I am amazed with the dried fruit and dried mushrooms on the nose. It’s full-bodied, with lots of cocoa, chocolate, walnuts, hazelnuts, and dried fruit flavors. It’s silky yet dense. Wonderful now with a long, long life ahead of it.

Roberto Conterno’s wines are some of the most compelling reds being made in Italy. They might even be the best ever from the winery at the moment, although some great Monfortinos were made in the 1930s, 1940s, 1950s and 1960s.