I was wondering yesterday if rosé Champagne is going the way of so many wines in the world, with a fresher and crunchier personality than in the past. So many Champagne producers talk about gastronomy and their Champagnes, particularly rosés, but I came across a number of rosé Champagnes this week while tasting with Senior Editor Stuart Pigott and Associate Editor Claire Nesbitt that are redefining the genre.
The best I had was the Krug Champagne Rosé 24ème Edition. What I liked about it was the mouthwatering deliciousness and crunchy intensity and attraction. It showed aromas of bread dough and watermelon with peaches on the nose, as well as some dried fruits. It was full-bodied with phenolic tannins, like a fine pinot noir. The finish was very Burgundy, with rose hip tea and dried lemons and kumquats. It also had a delicious finish. It’s great for drinking now but you can also hold. I tasted it with Olivier Krug, whose late father, Henri, was the winemaker of Krug the generation before him, and he emphasized how drinkability and attractiveness were some of the key points of the great rosé Champagnes of Krug. Rosés, and Champagne in general, are much more than just an aperitif anymore. “You can drink a great rosé Champagne throughout the meal,” he said.– James Suckling, Editor/Chairman