We are deep in the summer heat in Hong Kong, so it’s been energizing to dig into some Austrian wines over the last couple of weeks – mostly crisp, mineral or peppery whites, with lively acidity in the reds, too. The brisk sound of screw caps is also refreshing.
One of the standouts and Our Wine Choice of the week is the Johann Donabaum Riesling Wachau Limitierte Edition Smaragd 2021. This limited edition, produced only in outstanding vintages in small quantities and bottled under cork, is made from the best grapes from Johann Donabaum’s two top vineyard sites, Ried Offenberg and Ried Setzberg in the Wachau. It’s matured in large oak barrels with 10 months on the lees for added texture and complexity, and is an excellent example of the work of Johann Donabaum Jr., the fifth generation winemaker in the family, who has focused on wine quality, reducing yields and accessing top vineyard sites.
We like it for its depth and caressing, almost oily texture. It’s at the highest weight class for Wachau wines, Smaragd (which must be at a minimum of 12.5 percent alcohol, in contrast to the lighter levels of Steinfeder and Federspiel). But it is not at all heavy, with a medium to full body, and vibrant acidity lending structure and energy. It’s wonderfully fragrant, too, with a complex array of white flowers, citrus, flint and rosemary.
– Claire Nesbitt, Associate Editor
