Our Wine Choice: Castellare di Castellina Toscana I Sodi di S. Niccolò 2019

Our Wine Choice for this week could be considered an elder statesman of the Super Tuscan category. The Castellare di Castellina Toscana I Sodi di S. Niccolò 2019 was first produced in 1977 and this edition may be one of the best ever.

It’s a blend of 85 percent sangioveto (aka sangiovese) and 15 percent malvasia nera grapes from vineyards planted in the particularly hard (“sodo” in Italian), compact soils around the ancient church of S. Niccolo, which lies within the estate’s boundaries near the town of Castellina in Chianti, in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone.

The two grape varieties are fermented separately then united in barriques (two-thirds new oak) and aged for around 30 months, followed by a further 10 months aging in bottle before release.

It’s a complex and concentrated wine, exuding blackberry and spicy character and showing the sort of firm tannin structure that augurs well for a long life in the cellar, which is the best place for it, at least for another three years.

What’s remarkable in this vintage is the exquisite balance of fruit and oak, structure and energy. And that combination makes it very tempting to drink now, too, as I plan to do this evening!

– Jo Cooke, Tastings Editor