I went to American Hotel in Sag Harbor last night with David Sokolin the night before our Bellissimo Brunello event in New York City, and he brought two bottles of 2009 whites from Michel-Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet.
Niellon Chassagnes have always been very tight. In fact, I often find myself asking, “When are these wines going to come around?”
Yet, the two 2009 Chassagnes last night were so open and beautiful once they warmed up a bit in our wine glasses. This is what I like about 2009 white Burgundies in general. They are so upfront and delicious already. They will age beautifully, but they have the richness and beauty to be drinkable now. It sort of reminds me of the 1989 vintage.
The two Chassagne-Montrachets were the village and the premier cru Clos Saint-Jean. I have to say that I preferred the village straight away. It showed much cleaner, crisper character with a steely, mineral and lemony character. It was full and racy with focused and penetrating acidity. I scored it 92 points. The premier cru was a little funky with matchstick undertone but opened later and showed dried lemon and honey character. 91 points.
Buy the village since it’s under $50.
I drank the village with some fresh clams. The oysters were not as good. Love white Burgundy. Stay tuned for more white Burgundy notes and combinations.
