I’m out in the Yarra Valley where Chandon are holding their 4th Sparkling Summit, a trade and media event that focuses on the diversity and evolution of global sparkling wines. Through various themed sessions, the event looks at wines sourced from Australia, France, America and the United Kingdom.
The opening dinner, however, ran in the other direction and looked at several vintages of just one wine – Australia’s Chandon Vintage Brut, one of the most significant wines made Chandon’s Yara Valley outpost in terms of quality. It’s the wine I always measure them by.
I sat opposite Dr. Tony Jordan, the man who established the Australian Chandon operation from scratch back in 1986 and one of the most experienced and knowledgeable icons in the sparkling wine field from a global perspective. Tasting with Jordan is always interesting. He challenges, he has firm ideas, but he can also back them up.
The four vintages – 2010, 2006, 2003 and 2002 – were served alongside a menu from one of Australia’s most talented young chefs, Jake Nicolson. Now in Brisbane at Blackbird, he regularly cooked food alongside lineups of the greatest wines in the world at Melbourne’s Circa restaurant in its former heyday.
The four wines showcased a clear narrative of vintage, embossed by the evolution of the winemaking approach and, for the older wines, a decent spell on cork post-disgorgement. The approach with building this cuvée is to steer towards slight pinot noir dominance ahead of chardonnay and up to 8% pinot meunier where and when it is advantageous.
All four wines showed strongly, and one reassuring aspect was the way in which these wines demand time to hit their zenith with 10 years marking a clear point of harmony. They are typically on tirage for three years, sometimes more depending on the vintage.
Below is the Chandon Vintage Brut vertical with the accompanying menu:
Chandon Vintage Brut 2010
Very fresh and composed still with just primary autolysis aromas, some honey and light red fruits plus a bright, gentle, reductive flinty edge. Palate is supple, round and fleshy with plenty of red fruit impact, fine phenolics and a gentle flurry of acid to close. 93 points. Drink in 2020.
Yellowfin tuna tartare with crispy oyster, cucumber and radish
Chandon Vintage Brut 2003
With some slight variation under natural cork, this has built a toasty complexity and there’s a little nougat. This has a fuller palate and the phenolics really drive it with hints of nutty flavors and almond paste, nougat and praline to close. 92 points. Drink now.
Western Australian marron and scallop raviolo with roasted shellfish and Chandon bisque
Chandon Vintage Brut 2006
Very good wine with lemons and lime pith, some fine white almonds and hints of toffee as well, not to mention some toasty elements just starting to show through. The palate has powerful acidity and impressive, fleshy strong fruit presence. Great depth here, a little pepper too and a creamy, round, phenolic finish. 94 points. Drink now.
Butter poached Yarra Valley pheasant, ballotine of leg, creamed potato and chestnuts
Chandon Vintage Brut 2002
On paper, one of the greatest vintages that enjoyed a very long and cool season. There’s a fine citrusy edge and a gently nutty edge. The wine is super tight, fresh and lithe with fine red fruits and praline. Some nice sweet pastry notes and a fresh, expansive finish. In great shape although finer and frail – more delicate. Elegant vintage. 93 points. Drink now.
Lemon tart with mandarin leaf ice cream
Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.
