Nick's Article: Putting Clare Valley Riesling on the Map

There was a lot to think about on my flight home to Melbourne after a day in the Clare Valley last week. I’m taking on the role of Chief Judge at the Clare Wine Show in October, a region that has always held a deep interest for me as an old Aussie riesling was the wine that really sparked my interest when I was first starting to get into wine.

For riesling lovers in Australia, the Clare Valley is well and truly on the map, and has been highly regarded for decades. But the region is home to a fascinating matrix of geology and topography and the winemakers have been busy working on mapping out sub-regional zones. They’re bravely drawing lines on maps where other regions fear to do so.

The meeting also included a tasting of a selection of 2014 trophy-winning wines, and these reveal the region’s best quality and most consistent styles. Riesling is a sure thing, young, and with age, dry and sweet, there’s always a good semillon in the mix too. 

In the red department, it is a region that is best known for shiraz but the cabernet and malbec wines, either as straight varietal wines or as blends, are equally strong, perhaps even more consistent.

I was also lucky enough to share a bottle of the new release – Wendouree Shiraz Mataro – with a couple of mates, so I have put this note in the blog too. You will remember my reviews of the 2012 Wendouree release last year were very strong. If this 2013 Shiraz Mataro is anything to go by, they have doubled up with another refined, balanced and precisely powerful vintage.

Pikes Riesling Clare Valley The Merle 2014

The top of the Pikes riesling range, this has won many accolades and is a distinctive and concentrated expression of lime citrus, mineral salts and gentle spice; there’s a flinty edge too. The palate boasts extra depth and textural layering, and marries intense lime citrus flavor with white peach and green melon fruits. Acidity adds sherbet-like spark and leaves the palate tingling with flavor; incredible length here. Trophies for Best Current Vintage Riesling, Best Riesling of Show, Best Single Vineyard White Wine and Best Wine of Show, Clare Valley Wine Show 2014. Drink now or after 2020 for a bit of bottle age complexity. 96 points.

 

Crabtree Riesling Clare Valley Watervale 2005

A beautiful wine tasted as a 10-year-old, it has the most perfect toasty mature lime and lemon, lemon butter too. Really pristine, and shows clean struck development. The palate has a smooth, round and concentrated core of very fresh lime and lemon fruit flavor, hints of yellow grapefruit too. Terrific depth and length, it has many more years ahead. Best Exhibition (older) Section Riesling, 2012 and older, Clare Valley Wine Show 2014. Drink now. 95 points.

 

Penna Lane Semillon Clare Valley 2010

A nicely developed semillon that has waxy lemon citrus and lemongrass aromas, all pure and direct, plus gently toasty warmth with five years in bottle. The palate has a smooth core of waxy, grassy flavor, beeswax, dried lemon and mellow, open-knit texture. Chairman’s Trophy, Clare Valley Wine Show 2014. Drink now. 92 points.

 

Petaluma Riesling Clare Valley Cane Cut 2012

A super clean and pure nose that smells of peach, apricot, orange marmalade and some fresh lime citrus fruits; terrific purity and freshness. The palate has a smooth texture. Finely etched acidity underpins richly concentrated lime and lemon fruit, dried apricot and peach flavors rise up through the finish. Long and balanced. Best Sweet Wine of Show, Clare Valley Wine Show 2014. Drink now or keep for up to 20 years. These age very well. 94 points.

 

Knappstein Shiraz Clare Valley The Mayor’s Vineyard 2013

A very bright, pure and fresh-smelling Clare shiraz that has plenty of brambly forest berries, boysenberry and cassis, some stony mineral notes, spice and fine white pepper; terrific fragrance. The palate has a bright and juicy texture, flavors are in the red and blue spectrum of berries, wild raspberry and mulberry, fine tannins, lithe and pure finish. Trophy, best vintage section shiraz, Clare Valley Wine Show 2014. Drink now or keep for up to a decade. 93 points.

 

Taylors Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley St. Andrews 2012

A slightly brick-ish edge to the wine’s appearance, plenty of eucalypt and cassis fruit on the nose, some redder fruits too. The palate has supple, smooth and even tannins, cassis and blueberry fruit flavors at the core, with a decent framing of more savory cedary and dried woody spice flavors. Best Vintage Section Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley Wine Show 2014. 92 points.

 

Jim Barry Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley The Benbourne 2012

An entrancing cabernet that has a soulful depth, concentration and freshness. There are attractive liquorice and cassis on the nose, dried leaves and herbs, an almost chalky note too; full of vibrant character. The palate has an impressively supple, lithe and juicy texture, really smoothly honed tannins and a medium-weight presence; the balance is really entrancing. Great wine. Gold Medal, Clare Valley Wine Show 2014. Best from 2018, will hold for some years hence. 94 points.

 

Eldgedge Malbec Clare Valley The Reserve 2012

A very ripe, juicy and darkly concentrated style that smells of plum and mulberry fruits. Really saturated and showing a strong thread of liquorice and gentle eucalypt in the background. The palate is big, bold and juicy with really strapping tannins, black fruit flavor, plum paste and black liquorice. Tannins are soft and supple. Best Vintage Section Dry Red Blends And Other Varieties, Clare Valley Wine Show 2014. Best from 2018. 92 points.

 

Wendouree Shiraz Mataro Clare Valley 2013

A very silky rendition of this wine in 2013, and yet none of the haunting depth is lost in this wine; the liquorice, blue fruit, plums and dark cherries are all beautifully presented. Tannins are plush and almost fluffy, they hold long and effortless on the finish. Dark cherry to close. This is approachable now, but best with 15 years of age minimum. 95 points.

 

Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.