A visit to the Hill of Grace Vineyard before the new release tasting and spring is in full swing with a very healthy crop setting on enthusiastic vines. The oldest section of the vineyard (the 1860s ‘grandfather’ vines) are looking especially upright with a new Scott Henry trellis installed in September ready to hoist the canopy skyward in weeks to come.
Back to the cellars for the tasting and the 2015 whites from the Adelaide Hills provided early highlights, it is a stunning vintage for the Hills region and the aromatic 2015 whites are all very expressive, concentrated and balanced wines, ready for Australian summer drinking.
The 2014 whites showed a distinctly more compact character with less fruit richness and a more pared-back palate shape, a directness that definitely appeals but a real contrast to the opulence, concentration and lusciousness of the 2015s.
A trio of reds from the 2012 and 2013 vintages all firing in smart balance and brightness, from the elegant, merlot-dominant 2012 Abbott’s Prayer to the vivacious Tappa Pass Shiraz, with the 2012 Marble Angel in between, all these wines presented confident styles.
Henschke Riesling Lenswood Green’s Hill 2015
A bright and flint-flecked riesling with green apple and citrus in the lemon spectrum driving the nose, some bath powdery perfume too; this has a terrific sense of vitality and freshness fuelled by the excellent 2015 vintage. The palate has a strong core of punchy acidity with crisp green apple flavor at the core, chalky taut finish, super dry. 93 points. Drink now.
Henschke Riesling Eden Valley Peggy’s Hill 2015
This shows its Eden Valley origins with fine lemon and lime citrus, really lighting up the nose. The palate is rich, a fuller structural arc than many choose to cut, it works well for this wine, delivering great depth and impact on release. 92 points. Drink now.
Henschke Adelaide Hills Joseph Hill Gewurztraminer 2015
A blend of Adelaide Hills (87%) and Eden Valley (13%), this has a wealth of fragrant rose petal and a little flinty, stony edge, the fragrant fruit on offer here is stunning. The palate has a driving core of citrus and lychee fruit, some softness at the edges, powdery texture and a sweetly fragrant musky finish. 92 points. Drink now.
Henschke Sauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills Coralinga 2015
A quite herbal nose, grassy, with just-ripe tropical fruits on offer and fresh-picked shiso and betel leaf. The palate has a smooth, silky and flavorful style to it, plenty of lime and gentle tropical melon, super fresh. 93 points. Drink now.
Henschke Barossa Tilly’s Vineyard 2014
The all-in blended white, split between Eden Valley (69%) and Lenswood (31%) vineyard sources, the varietal breakdown is semillon (53%), sauvignon blanc (20%), riesling (18%) and chardonnay (6%), this shows a core of semillon, dryied- cut straw and lemon characters, along with apple, melon and beeswaxy notes. Unwooded these days, set for young, crisp drinking. Silky texture, sherbet-like crunch. 89 points. Drink now.
Henschke Pinot Gris Adelaide Hills Littlehampton Innes 2015
Terrific fragrant, aromatic pinot gris with apple blossom and lightly musky pear and apple fruit notes, really pretty wine. The palate is silky, smooth and has genuine concentration and presence, pear and apple fruit flavors run long with a crunchy and juicy finish. 92 points. Drink now.
Henschke Chardonnay Lenswood Croft 2014
A bold and brassy nose here with an initial hint of oak that soon wraps into the wine, neatly leaving a gently hazelnutty layer across lemon, green peach and apple blossom aromas, gentle praline too. The palate has a good depth, cooler crunchy acidity, smooth edges and plenty of baked apple, peach and a surge of lemony acidity to close. Drink now or in next five years. 92 points.
Henschke Lenswood Abbotts Prayer 2012
A cool-climate Claret of sorts, this Adelaide Hills blend of merlot (79%) and cabernet sauvignon (21%) is in great form, this vintage with bright mulberry and red plum fruits laced with cassis and blueberry, gently leafy, really bright, vibrant and gently spiced with one-third new and the remainder seasoned oak. The palate has a succulent and concentrated style to it, tannins are fine and whilst really a medium-bodied wine, this has plenty of power. The red plum and mulberry flavors run long and even, a lick of toasty oak warms the finish, terrific wine with poise, power and elegance. Approachable now but best from 2018. 96 points.
Henschke Shiraz Barossa Tappa Pass 2013
A split between Eden Valley and Barossa Valley sourcing, this has a bright blackberry and raspberry fruit nose with some gun smoke and cassis in the mix, oak is layered in deep, gently spicy. The palate is smooth-honed and packed with red plum and blackberry fruit flavor, great depth and balance, really flows and is fresh and fleshy right through the succulent finish. Best from 2018. 94 points.
Image: The 1860’s ‘grandfather’ vines at Henschke’s Hill of Grace Vineyard
Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.
