Cloudy Bay isn’t taken seriously by most people, but it should be. I doubt many of the thousands of ice-cold bottles drunk in cool bars are ever consumed with much reverence or thought. The famous sauvignon blanc of New Zealand has become synonymous with white-wine-cocktail chic for many. I am sure it fuels all sorts of chatter and fun, which in the end is what wine should do for the most part. Yet I think the white deserves more respect.
The column first appeared in Tatler 2016 January issue. Read the full column here.
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