My Article: Wine is Christmas Cheer

(LONDON, DEC. 24, 2010) It’s wonderful when wine brings people together. Even if some people think otherwise, wine is wine, regardless of price or method of production, and it has this striking ability to make everyone friends.

I was thinking of this a couple of days ago while having lunch in London with some friends from Decanter magazine. We were at a new hipster Italian restaurant in Bermondsey called Zucca, and I had ordered a bottle of 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto to celebrate Christmas. We tried the wine and it was gorgeous. It seems to be getting better and better. It changed from a decadent, opulent plum character in the glass to pure cherries and rose petals but then went back again. It was magic. Check out my tasting note: 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto.

Four men on the table next to ours were admiring our bottle, and they sent over a glass of 1966 Terlano Pinot Bianco. The old white was thick and dry, with dried pineapples, mangos and minerals on the nose and palate. It was in perfect condition. We thanked them for the glass, after we had all shared a sip.

I decided that we better send a glass of the Giacosa over to them. So the waiter carried a full glass over to the four friends, who were obviously enjoying the holiday cheer. They in turn sent over a glass of their 1967 Rinaldi Barolo and 1964 Mascarello Barolo. The Rinaldi was a bit tired, but I still liked the leather, dried fruits on the nose and palate, with a bright acidity on the finish. The Mascarello was wonderful, with roses, tar and pure fruit. It reminded me of a great red from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti from the same period. 

By the end of the lunch, both tables were happy and friendly and exchanging ideas about wine, food and life. It was a lunch full of Christmas cheer.

I wish you the best over Christmas, and hope that you find plenty of cheer over the next few days!