My Article: The Problem with California Wine

(HONG KONG, JAN. 20, 2011) I was standing in front of about 50 people last night at the Hong Kong Banker’s Club conducting a fun tasting of eight Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons for Watson’s Wine, and I asked the participants to raise their hands if they regularly bought California wines. Only one lifted his hand, and he was from England.

The people in front of me were keen wine drinkers – part of the 30,000 regular buyers of quality wines from Hong Kong’s top wine retailer. They were not the tycoons paying thousands of US dollars for Lafite or other rarities in auctions. They were real wine enthusiasts like you and me.

Sadly, I have to say that I seldom, if ever, see people drinking California wines in Hong Kong. Of course French wines, particularly Bordeaux, rule. But I also see lots of Australian wines drunk, as well as Italian and Spanish wines. What’s wrong with California wines here?

I am not completely sure why most of the wine-drinking population of Hong Kong is uninterested in California wines. I often hear that they think it is too expensive compared to the same quality from Oz or France. I also hear that they don’t like the style of the wines, which are described as jammy and alcoholic.

Let’s face it: Some of the reds and whites from California just don’t work with the subtle flavors of Chinese food. They are too fruity. Some – even top names – have too much residual sugar and too much alcohol. They literally smother the delicacy of what the Chinese enjoy to eat.

And eating and drinking is what is done in Hong Kong. The idea of wine as cocktails is not that popular yet. People like to enjoy a meal together and drink delicious wines. It’s very European in a sense, or even Latin.

My tasting included Napa Cabs from Clark-Claudon, Trefethen, Meander, Napa Angel, Beringer, Stag’s Leap, Kapcsandy, and Opus One. They ranged in price from the Trefethen at $258HK ($33) to Opus One at $2,768HK ($355). I didn’t choose the wines for the tasting.

Here are my tasting notes for the wines that I found to be of outstanding quality.

2005 Clark-Claudon Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: I like the sweet tobacco and currant character on the nose and palate. It’s medium body, with good fruit and a slightly astringent finish. Drink now. 14+22+22+32 = 90 points

2006 Trefethen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: I have tasted this a number of times and it’s an outstanding bottle for the money. I like the fine tannins and the fresh austerity to this Cab. It shows plenty of berry and tobacco character. 14+22+22+32 = 90 points

2007 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: This is dense with a velvety texture and a lovely palate of toasted oak, coffee, and blackberries. It’s full and round with plenty of structure. Give it three to four years of bottle age. 14+22+22+32 = 90 points

2007 Stag’s Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon: There’s some minerally and floral character on this red. I like it. Full and silky with lots of currants and spices. 14+22+22+32 = 90 points

2006 Kapcsandy Cabernet Sauvignon: This is a blockbuster style of red (I could see many in the room didn’t like it) with loads of rich and ripe fruit with coffee and dried berry character. It’s full and soft and velvety. A little short on the finish but clearly outstanding. I remember it being better when I had it in California. Sample may have been a little cooked. Drink. 14+23+22+32 = 91 points

2006 Opus One: I for one prefer the 2006 Opus to the 2007. I really appreciate the silky, refined, and aromatic quality of this wine. It’s full yet balanced with blueberry, currants, and spices on the finish. Racy is a word that comes to mind. Alas, most people in the room thought it was way too expensive. Drink now or age. 14+23+23+33 = 93 points