(HONG KONG, JAN. 20, 2011) I was standing in front of about 50 people last night at the Hong Kong Banker’s Club conducting a fun tasting of eight Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons for Watson’s Wine, and I asked the participants to raise their hands if they regularly bought California wines. Only one lifted his hand, and he was from England.
The people in front of me were keen wine drinkers – part of the 30,000 regular buyers of quality wines from Hong Kong’s top wine retailer. They were not the tycoons paying thousands of US dollars for Lafite or other rarities in auctions. They were real wine enthusiasts like you and me.
Sadly, I have to say that I seldom, if ever, see people drinking California wines in Hong Kong. Of course French wines, particularly Bordeaux, rule. But I also see lots of Australian wines drunk, as well as Italian and Spanish wines. What’s wrong with California wines here?
I am not completely sure why most of the wine-drinking population of Hong Kong is uninterested in California wines. I often hear that they think it is too expensive compared to the same quality from Oz or France. I also hear that they don’t like the style of the wines, which are described as jammy and alcoholic.
Let’s face it: Some of the reds and whites from California just don’t work with the subtle flavors of Chinese food. They are too fruity. Some – even top names – have too much residual sugar and too much alcohol. They literally smother the delicacy of what the Chinese enjoy to eat.
And eating and drinking is what is done in Hong Kong. The idea of wine as cocktails is not that popular yet. People like to enjoy a meal together and drink delicious wines. It’s very European in a sense, or even Latin.
My tasting included Napa Cabs from Clark-Claudon, Trefethen, Meander, Napa Angel, Beringer, Stag’s Leap, Kapcsandy, and Opus One. They ranged in price from the Trefethen at $258HK ($33) to Opus One at $2,768HK ($355). I didn’t choose the wines for the tasting.
Here are my tasting notes for the wines that I found to be of outstanding quality.
2005 Clark-Claudon Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: I like the sweet tobacco and currant character on the nose and palate. It’s medium body, with good fruit and a slightly astringent finish. Drink now. 14+22+22+32 = 90 points
2006 Trefethen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: I have tasted this a number of times and it’s an outstanding bottle for the money. I like the fine tannins and the fresh austerity to this Cab. It shows plenty of berry and tobacco character. 14+22+22+32 = 90 points
2007 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: This is dense with a velvety texture and a lovely palate of toasted oak, coffee, and blackberries. It’s full and round with plenty of structure. Give it three to four years of bottle age. 14+22+22+32 = 90 points
2007 Stag’s Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon: There’s some minerally and floral character on this red. I like it. Full and silky with lots of currants and spices. 14+22+22+32 = 90 points
2006 Kapcsandy Cabernet Sauvignon: This is a blockbuster style of red (I could see many in the room didn’t like it) with loads of rich and ripe fruit with coffee and dried berry character. It’s full and soft and velvety. A little short on the finish but clearly outstanding. I remember it being better when I had it in California. Sample may have been a little cooked. Drink. 14+23+22+32 = 91 points
2006 Opus One: I for one prefer the 2006 Opus to the 2007. I really appreciate the silky, refined, and aromatic quality of this wine. It’s full yet balanced with blueberry, currants, and spices on the finish. Racy is a word that comes to mind. Alas, most people in the room thought it was way too expensive. Drink now or age. 14+23+23+33 = 93 points
But I would agree that many California wines don't play well with the nuances of good Chinese food -- at least in Singapore you had the Malay/Indonesian/Peranakan foods with their earthy, spicy flavors that could handle a bolder wine.
I notice a similar stance on California wines portrayed in British media such as decanter. You read through the reviews for European wines, and they have a plethora of great selections from producers of all sizes, but then you read the California wine reviews and notice that they are reviewing wines of a lesser distinction from large producers that are "typical" new world wines. Granted, its probably just whats available to them, but Its as if they just don't have any idea that we are making some of the most exciting wines in the world, or they just don't want to admit it.
It's absurd how the British wine press has Australia as one of its darlings, yet constantly complains about CA wines. I'm convinced that it has little to do with what they enjoy drinking and more to do with other prejudices
Do they often drink wine by itself or do they feel that good wine should be paired with good food?
If so, I can see why they might not like the ripe California style, but I can't see where Bordeaux would be much better with Chinese food. What Bordeaux's are good choices with most Chinese food. I have personally preferred the dry whites from Alsace as the best match.
Thank you.
Bottom line is that there are many factors that come into play with wines, like many other subjective views of "taste", be it movies, music, or art. There are great wines produced from every corner of the world, and yes, crap too. Let's talk about laughable after we stop thinking that "made in USA" equates to "better by definition".
I have had the misfortune of drinking an equal number of pretentiously overpriced wines from California, as I have had from Australia.
I personally believe James is right. If producers from California aren't willing to represent their products in Hong Kong, then they will continue to experience sales growth which is, on average, lower than those from regions who will.
So could we say that the HK market is too matured for Californian wines?
Not sure how that was misinterpreted, my apologies.