My Article: The Mother of Wine Tasting Lunches
(NEW YORK) My East Coast tasting group got together on Friday at Tocqueville Restaurant of New York City and tore through some amazing bottles. I believe we drank the greatest dry white wine ever produced – 1973 Domaine de La Romanee Conti Montrachet – as well as a number of other phenomenal wines: Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Rhone.
Five of the wines were perfect; that’s 100 points. Am I being too generous with my point-giving? I don’t think so. The wines below are icons for their respective categories, and some, such as the 1959 Mouton and 1973 Montrachet, not to mention the 1947 La Tâche, are legends.
People often think that I only do tastings in rather sterile or controlled environments, or only in the cellars of wineries or wine shops. But the best is obviously tasting when you are rocking on with your friends, comparing and enjoying wines.
The line-up was mind-blowing. I tasted (drank) these wines in this order:
1973 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet: This is the legend. Right out of the glass you know it’s a perfect wine. Almonds, dried apricots, apple pie, and lemon lime. Full and really rich with an oily character, it’s long and velvety with amazing thickness and richness. Yet it’s agile, creamy and toasty. It seems to get more agile and lively with air. I left it at least three hours in the glass and it was even fresher. This is structured like a red, yet so fresh and together. I am not sure what more to say other than the legend lives. 15+25+25+35 = 100 points
1990 François Raveneau Chablis Clos: This might be the greatest Chablis ever made. It shows insane honey and candied lemon rind character with minerals and hints of Thai basil. It’s full with loads of honey. So much there and so much still holding back. 15+25+25+35 = 100 points
1989 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet: Shame this wasn’t a perfect bottle. It’s so rich and wonderful. I know this wine well, and it normally delivers fantastic depth of fruit and complexity. It’s still full and layered. I normally score this 96 to 97 points. 14+23+21+31 = 89 points
1982 Château Cheval-Blanc St. Emilion: I have tasted this wine at least four or five times in the last two months and it is clearly classic. Some can be a little austere and thin though. This bottle was gorgeous with such pure and bright fruit. It showed aromas of dried cherries and mushrooms that turn to sliced ripe plums. It’s full with round and ripe tannins, and a long, long finish. 14+24+24+34 = 96 points
1975 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Graves: This is a legend in the market, but I have never thought it was perfection. The nose is impressive with dried stones, sweet tobacco and dried dark fruits. It is full-bodied with loads of ripe fruit, iodine, and sea salt flavors. It is full, powerful, and chewy. Turns dry from the tannins on the finish. 14+23+23+34 = 94 points
1959 Château Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac: Another perfect bottle. This has been a long-time favorite with mint and fresh basil, as well as currants and dried fruits on the nose. It turns to dried flowers. Full-bodied with spices, berries, and light eucalyptus character. Christmas cake too. Full body with velvety tannins. This bottle was almost mid-shoulder height, but it was a perfect wine. 15+25+25+35 = 100 points
1955 Château Palmer Margaux: What a wine. It was almost Burgundian at first with its floral and strawberry aromas and flavors. There were roses and lilacs as well. This is always an elegant and classy bottle. Full body, with a balanced tannin structure that is ultra-refined. It caresses every inch of your palate. Such class. This is a wine that should be decanted and drunk immediately. 14+23+24+34 = 95 points
1947 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche: It says La Tâche the minute you put your nose in the glass. Intense aromas of ripe fruits with toffee and dried flowers. Light raisins as well. It’s full and ultra-silky with bright fruit and round, beautiful tannins. It goes on for minutes on the palate. A wine for contemplation. And a perfect wine. 15+25+25+35 = 100 points
1947 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny: This has a fascinating nose of watermelon, citrus fruit and candied fruits, not to mention rock candy and flowers. Full to medium body with bright acidity, it’s dense and lively with a beautiful, bright and racy finish. 14+24+24+34 = 96 points
1971 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes: The aromas show plum tart with caramel, honey, and cream. It’s full and lively with bright and lively fruit and acidity. Just caresses everything. Decadent yet fresh. Everything is in the right proportion. 15+25+25+35 = 100 points
1964 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti: I was expecting a little more from this legendary bottle. It started off a little funky and strange, but then it came around and smelled like sex. Full and silky textured with dark berries, toffee and caramel on the palate. It opened wonderfully with time. 14+23+23+35 = 95 points
1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant: Wow. This is almost too intense, with candied fruit and dried lemon rind, and hints of honeyed dark fruits. Spicy too. It’s full-bodied, with round tannins and a full-throttle finish. Still just a baby. Really powerful. 15+24+24+34 = 97 points
1990 Henri Jayer Richebourg: Just a baby still. Some thought it was slightly corked, but I thought it was just amazing. Full and super racy, it shows flowers, intense fruit, and a bright and beautiful finish. The precision of fruit and ripe tannins is nothing but amazing. 15+24+24+35 = 98 points
1949 Leroy Chambertin: It starts off very decadent with almost rotten meat and fruit on the nose, but it blows off with air and turns into an exotic and opulent old Burg with plums, meats and berries at the finish. Outstanding intensity on the palate. 14+23+23+34 = 94 points
1971 Château Climens Barsac: Wild and racy sweet wine with honey, vanilla, apple and pear pie, and toffee on the nose and palate. It’s full and very sweet with a long, long finish. Gorgeous. 14+23+23+33 = 93 points
1982 Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon: I am a big fan of this vintage of DP, like 1996 and 2002. It was served at the end of the tasting. It’s still very fresh. I love the apple pie, cream, and lightly toasted almond aromas and flavors. It’s full, round and all-encompassing. Lovely soft, caressing texture. 14+24+24+34 = 96 points