My Article: Tasting Historical Lafites in Hong Kong

Tasting history is always a rarified experience – and a humbling one in some ways – for a wine critic. It makes you realize how inconsequential we all are in the world of wine and the world at large. In other words, great wine was made yesterday, today and tomorrow, whether we are here or not.

I was lucky enough to attend a small lunch yesterday with the owners of the Acker Merrall & Condit auction house at the Hong Kong restaurant Gold (chef Harlan Goldstein is a talented man) and tasted seven vintages of the insatiable first growth Lafite-Rothschild: 1901, 1904, 1905, 1907, 1908, 1909, and 1914. They, for all intentional purposes, spanned the presidential term of Teddy Roosevelt – one of my favorites.

The lunch was a pre-auction celebration for Acker. The sale starts today.

The most striking thing about the tasting was how these old vintages of Lafite really showed the typical Lafite character: cedar, tobacco, chocolate and subtle currant aromas and flavors. After all these decades of aging in an impeccable cellar in Bordeaux, most of the bottles were in perfect condition. As I always say, they were like genies let out of the bottle when I tasted them. 

I loved the way the wines evolved in the glass when they were poured. They come out subtly with delicate and complex aromas and sweet reserved flavors. The wines caressed your palate and stirred your emotions – and then they were gone in the glass. Tasting ancient wines is fascinating.

1901: This is Lafite. Prune and spices, with a cedar and wet tobacco character on the nose. Even tea. Full and rich with a dark China tea and cedar character. Just a hint of chocolate. Opens in the glass like a genie. Amazing. 96 points.

1904: A little volatile with varnish undertones, but shows mushrooms too. Full and dense but interesting. Funky, but who’s complaining? 90 points.

1905: Amazing nose of plums and delicate currants. Full and wonderfully silky and dense with a light plum jam and bright acidity. Phenomenal finish. Delicate and fruity. 99 points.

1907: Orange peel, stewed tea and slight metallic undertone. Full-bodied, with a tangy and funky undertone. Not completely clean, but wonderful. 94 points.

1908: A little maderized with raised volatile acidity, but some tobacco and berry underneath. Turns fruity and even jammy. 90 points.

1909: Aromas of peat and fruits, with hints of cedar and berries. Full and velvety with good fruit and a medium finish. Goes mushroomy. A little light. 91 points.

1914: Fascinating aromas of light strawberry and cream brulee with honey. Medium body with an intense lively acidity and a bright finish. Super lively. Toasty wood too, then an electric finish. Goes on and on. It’s so Burgundian and refined. Dense and racy. 95 points.