(NORWALK, CONN.) If you are into Bordeaux, you spend time contemplating vintages. You know the game. Is 2009 the best ever? Is 1990 better than 1989? Is 1982 cracked up to be what it’s supposed to be?

Well, I haven’t spent that much time thinking whether 1990 is that much better than 1982. I must admit that my business card ranks 1982 ahead of 1990, but that’s in general. Some times it’s just not so…

That’s why I was stoked to be invited to a tasting last Thursday organized by David Saunders with some rocking finance guys in Norwalk, Conn. that included Cheval Blanc, Haut-Brion, Margaux, and Latour. All the wines were from 1982 and 1990. That’s right – pairs.

It was a little weird tasting the wines in the visitors’ area of the Norwalk Maritime Aquarium. I must admit it was my first time tasting wines with a room full of sharks. I won’t go into the obvious jokes. Who’s complaining when you get the chance to taste such wines?

I thought the 1982s would kick. But, in fact, the stars of the tasting were the 1990s – at least the 1990 Latour (a wine I have always rated a perfect 100) and the 1990 Cheval Blanc (a wine that is close to 100 and underrated on the whole.)

Haut-Brion was exactly where it always is in both vintages. The 1982 is the less expensive of the first growths in 1982 and the most drinkable. The 1990 HB is nowhere near as perfect as 1989, but it’s a damn good bottle.

Margaux: This, for me that night, was the biggest disappointment, but it was still outstanding. It just seemed hard and unyielding, both the 1982 and the 1990. The later is supposed to be top-of-the-line.

The wine, as I said, that performed as it should was the 1990 Latour. I have always given this wine 100 points. Its purity, precision and powerfulness are all there. It’s not a dense and obvious wine. It simply impresses you with its class, determination, and length. The 1982 is also top-of-the-line. It wasn’t that long ago that I tasted the wine in New York City on video.

Cheval 1990 was a surprise for me and most of the other guys, who were keen wine drinkers and collectors. (They brought BYOB bottles like 1990 Petrus, 1997 Harlan and 1985 Lafite, not to mention 1990 Evangile.) They didn’t think the 1990 Cheval would rate, but the wine was gorgeous and shared a similar clarity and structure with the 1990 Latour. The 1982 was outstanding, but not as impressive as when I have had it in the past – even a day later.

All in all, it was a fascinating tasting. It was great to visit two classic Bordeaux vintages that my generation grew up with. It’s hard to believe that I cut my teeth as a wine critic with the 1982 vintage and then such greats as 1990. Great wine is a beautiful thing – even swimming with the sharks!

1982 Cheval Blanc: It shows a slightly verbal edge to it now with green coffee bean and currant leaf and fruit aromas. It’s full and silky with lovely tannins, but dried dark fruits with balsamic undertones on the palate. The Cabernet Franc is coming out more in this bottle. Fascinating wine. 14+23+23+33 = 93 points

1990 Cheval Blanc: This is really wonderful and a big surprise for the tasting with wonderful flowers, dark berries and hints of currants on the nose. It’s full and very silky with a wonderful precision and finesse. Goes on and on. Wow. What a finish. This is a buy call. So outstanding. Just a baby but a joy to drink. 14+24+24+35 = 97 points

1982 Haut Brion: So beautiful with sweet berry and sweet tobacco character. Dried flowers. Hints of dried fruits. Full and balanced with refined tannins. Easy to overlook but so beautiful. Silky and refined with an iodine and spice character. Best-drinking first growth now for 1982. 14+24+23+33+ = 94 points

My Article: Tasting First Growths with the Sharks