My Article: Syrah in Tuscany’s Cortona Appellation

A few weeks ago I organized a Syrah tasting at the Il Falconiere Relais & Chateaux during the Tuscan Sun Festival to underline the greatest Tuscan Syrahs from the appellation of Cortona. About 100 people attended the tasting, followed by a dinner in the beautiful hotel. Everyone seemed enthusiastic about the wines.

Five producers participated: Riccardo Barrachi, Fabrizio Dionisio, Antinori La Braccesca, Stefano Amerighi, and Tenimenti Luigi d’Alessandro. Most of the Syrahs served were 2008, although there were a few 2007s and 2006s. My two favorite wines of the tasting were the 2008 Tenimenti Luigi d’Alessandro Syrah Cortona Migliara and the 2006 Stefano Amerighi Syrah Cortona. The latter is biodynamic.

What I appreciate about these Tuscan Syrahs is their similarity to great Syrah from France’s Northern Rhone, yet they have a combination of richness and freshness that is unique to almost all reds in Tuscany. This bright acidity in the wines is attributed to the large thermal changes, from day temperatures that can reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, to nights in the 70s. It maintains the fresh acidity in the grapes, and therefore, the wines.

I remember years ago when Paolo de Marchi of the Chianti Classico winery of Isole e Olena told me how difficult it was to grow Syrah in Tuscany. “It’s great one year then terrible the other,” he said. If I remember correctly, he said that the skins were thin compared to many grape types, and it was very sensitive to too much heat or bad weather in general. Paolo may have been the first in Tuscany to be successful with Syrah.

Anyway, the rise of the Cortona appellation in Tuscany and the increase in excellent wine producers of Syrah underlines that the grape is now a wonderful part of the Tuscan wine world.