My Article: More Single-Vineyard Pure Sangioveses
Sette Ponti, the famous Tuscan wine estate, launched a new single-vineyard pure sangiovese today in New York called Vigna dell’Impero 1935. The name refers to a few rows of sangiovese vines planted about 80 years ago.
“I wanted to make a pure sangiovese that competes with the best sangivoeses in Tuscany – even Brunello di Montalcino,” said Antonio Moretti Cuseri, the owner of Sette Ponti who is famous for his Bordeaux-blend Oreno as well as his sangiovese-merlot blend called Crognolo.
I tasted the wine in Hong Kong today, and I was impressed with its purity and depth of fruit. It was a little reductive on the nose giving earth aromas at first but it showed wonderful, subtle, deep fruit and earth character as the wine opened in the glass. Here is the tasting note:
2012 Sette Ponti Toscana Vigna dell Impero 1935
Vigna dell Impero is one of a number of new single-vineyard pure sangiovese wines released in the last few years in the region of Tuscany. For example, the respected Chianti Classico producer, Riecine, released a year ago a pure sangiovese that winemaker Sean O’Callahgan said he wanted to emulate the pureness and finesse of a great Burgundy. His Riecine Toscana Riecine 2010 certainly did that and more. It’s the fine, creamy texture and subtle rose and strawberry character that reminds me of great Burgundy.
Here is the tasting note:
Nearby, merlot master Petrolo is making a similarly ingenious pure sangiovese called Petrolo Toscana Boggina. Winemaker Luca Sanjust makes the wine in two editions: one fermented and aged in amphora and another fermented in cement and aged in French oak barrels. I have a tendency to slightly prefer the amphora-made Boggina.
Here are the last two ratings for the 2012 Boggina:
2012 Petrolo Sangiovese Val d’Arno di Sopra Bogginanfora
2012 Petrolo Sangiovese Val d’Arno di Sopra Boggina
It’s exciting to witness the trend of passionate Tuscan winemakers following a path to produce the best possible pure sangiovese from selected single vineyards that emulates the greatness of Burgundy, or perhaps more appropriately Barolo and Barbaresco. Years ago, many thought they could do the best with only international grape types.