I was honored to be the US delegate to this year’s Cultural Communication Forum (CCF2013) in Seoul this week, an event that promotes Korean culture through communication among individuals. Organized by the government sponsored group Corea Image Communication Institute (CICI), the event essentially invites cultural leaders from different countries to visit historical and modern institutions that embody the complexity of Korean society and culture, and, in hope and in effect, to create good-willed ambassadors for their country.
It was amazing to me that they would choose a wine critic as the US delegate. It shows that wine is on the agenda of the South Korean government, and is viewed as an important part of their culture at large.
Many press members interviewed me and the other dozen members of the CCF 2013. One of the regular questions for me was “what is a wine critic doing at a cultural communication conference?”
I simply answered: “Wine is culture and wine is communication. What other consumable product can touch all your senses while generate conversations, sensations and thoughts?” They seemed fascinated.
My wife-to-be is Korean. So I know the country. But my few days this week in Seoul opened my eyes even wider to a dynamic society that blends tradition with modernity in a unique way. Visits to the temple of design, Hyundai Card Design Library and Building, followed by the Korea Furniture Museum were examples of this harmonized society that moves forward at a rapid pace yet always looking back to its history and tradition.
The wine market is still small here with about $500 million a year in sales. Around one percent of the 50 million inhabitants of South Korea currently drink wine, but many more are interested in wine, especially as the middle and upper middle class grow with a prosperous economy.
If taxes on wine were a little less punitive, wine consumption would be two or three times what it is. The average bottle of wine is about $30 to $40. Chile is the largest provider of wines to South Korea followed by France and Italy. American wines also seem to have a following, but they are too expensive on the whole.
The food culture here is vibrant to say the least. Koreans always seem to be discussing food. They have a food psyche similar to Italians in that they are always looking ahead to the next meal – not so much for sustenance but for taste and conversation. They relish meals with family and friends.
The press seemed concerned that Korean food doesn’t go well with wine. However, I told them that I can say with experience that it does. I eat Korean food near to every day, and it goes well with just about all wines.
As many of you will know, Korean food is unique. There are not many cuisines in the world with such diversity of flavors and character from spicy to savory and sweet to acidic. Korean palates are sophisticated because they are exposed to so many different tastes and sensations on a daily basis.
All these factors contribute to why I believe that South Korea has a bright future in the world of wine. So many focus on the Chinese market, and in sheer numbers, it certainly looks impressive. But no one should overlook the Koreans.