My Article: Following A Dream in Winemaking in Tuscany

I was thinking about a recent visit to the estate of Giampaolo Motta, La Massa (photo). It’s located on the hillsides of the Chianti Classico town of Panzano. This area is the best growing area in Chianti Classico with the highest concentration of outstanding wineries. Apparently close to 80 percent of them organically grow their grapes.

But the quick trip was to visit Giampaolo, who is a bit of an outspoken iconoclast. He is finishing a large new winery, which he says is inspired by engine blocks of Ferraris. He’s such a keen Ferrarista, that the interior of the winery will be painted in the Ferrari red with lots of memorabilia of the famous carmaker.

Giampaolo no longer makes wines under the appellation of Chianti Classico. His two wines – La Massa and Giorgio Primo – are simply labeled Indicazione Geografica Tipica. La Massa is always outstanding quality and a relatively good value. It’s a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Giorgio Primo is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It is one of the top reds of Tuscany now.

It seems a little strange that not that long ago – may be 10 years ago – I had a heated debate with Giampaolo about his adherence to Chianti Classico. He said he would always use the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita. I said that it might limit him from achieving his winemaking dream of producing a wine similar in style and structure to great Bordeaux.

He certainly has changed his mind, and I applaud him for following his dream. His wines get better and better every year.

This, of course, doesn’t mean that I think everyone in Chianti Classico who wants to make great wines should make Bordeaux blends. I just rated two single vineyard Chianti Classicos from Castello di Ama 95 and 96 points.

However, I notice some people get upset on the web when I write positively about Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots or Bordeaux blends made in key growing areas for Sangivoese in Tuscany. I have to ask the question: What’s wrong with diversity in the wine world? And who’s to say a winemaker shouldn’t follow his or her dreams, if they have the opportunity?