I was thinking about a recent visit to the estate of Giampaolo Motta, La Massa (photo). It’s located on the hillsides of the Chianti Classico town of Panzano. This area is the best growing area in Chianti Classico with the highest concentration of outstanding wineries. Apparently close to 80 percent of them organically grow their grapes.
But the quick trip was to visit Giampaolo, who is a bit of an outspoken iconoclast. He is finishing a large new winery, which he says is inspired by engine blocks of Ferraris. He’s such a keen Ferrarista, that the interior of the winery will be painted in the Ferrari red with lots of memorabilia of the famous carmaker.
Giampaolo no longer makes wines under the appellation of Chianti Classico. His two wines – La Massa and Giorgio Primo – are simply labeled Indicazione Geografica Tipica. La Massa is always outstanding quality and a relatively good value. It’s a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Giorgio Primo is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It is one of the top reds of Tuscany now.
It seems a little strange that not that long ago – may be 10 years ago – I had a heated debate with Giampaolo about his adherence to Chianti Classico. He said he would always use the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita. I said that it might limit him from achieving his winemaking dream of producing a wine similar in style and structure to great Bordeaux.
He certainly has changed his mind, and I applaud him for following his dream. His wines get better and better every year.
This, of course, doesn’t mean that I think everyone in Chianti Classico who wants to make great wines should make Bordeaux blends. I just rated two single vineyard Chianti Classicos from Castello di Ama 95 and 96 points.
However, I notice some people get upset on the web when I write positively about Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots or Bordeaux blends made in key growing areas for Sangivoese in Tuscany. I have to ask the question: What’s wrong with diversity in the wine world? And who’s to say a winemaker shouldn’t follow his or her dreams, if they have the opportunity?
I'd like to respond to your question and just clarify one point regarding the use of local varieties- in this case Sangiovese.
I made the choice to declassify my wines 8 years ago for two primary reasons: commercial and personal. However I have steadfastly concentrated on producing wines of high quality that reflect, as James points out, my dream.
I cannot go into great detail, in this forum, to explain the commercial reasons but I will say that I made the correct choice for me and for my winery.
As for the personal reasons: I want to make wines that reflect my personality and my dream to someday make what I call a "great" wine.
With La Massa I.G.T., Sangiovese is the soul of the wine. I choose the best grapes from our vineyards and try to obtain the best expression that this variety has to offer by doing a delicate extraction and short vinification.
Giorgio Primo is my heart, my dreams and my personality. It is the style of wines I enjoy the most. My first experiences in wine were in Bordeaux many years ago. Its wines have had a great influence on my palate; its wine makers, a great influence on my thinking about wine; its methods, on my wine making. I have reverence for its history and precision and the expression the wines show of its terroir. Don’t forget that Cabernet Sauvignon is present in Tuscany since 1600 under the name of “uva francesa”.
For me, today, it is about having the liberty to express my dreams, my personality and very importantly the incredible terroir (not VARIETY) of this place - LA MASSA.
Thank you Giovanni for your question and thank you James for your words.
Giampaolo Motta
P.S. Dear James I remember very well this famous debite in restaurant in Valdarno, wow what a evening!!