My Article: Doing Biodynamics for the Right Reasons

I was thinking about biodynamic and organic viticulture late last week when I visited Castello dei Rampolla in the heart of Chianti Classico just outside of the town of Panzano. I was filming brother and sister team Luca and Maurizia de Napoli, the owners of the beautiful estate. I am working on a special video series for the site for August when my Tuscan tasting notes will be posted.

Anyway, I was impressed with the dedication of Luca and Maurizia to biodynamic viticulture and their passion for their own ecosystem at Rampolla. Luca has been working on energizing the unique area they live and work in through biodynamic principles, including not using inorganic fertilizers, herbicides, fungicides, and anything else that may be harmful. Rampolla has a magical buzz to it with the fauna and floral obviously flourishing. You just know it’s all working right.

Luca said that the destruction the past generation did to his estate’s unique local environment through the use of chemicals and other agro-industrial methods was monumental. And it took years to bring it all back to a natural and thriving state.

I have to admit that his red wines I tasted were full of character and soulful. Luca says you can taste the energy, and I felt it myself.

Here are my tasting notes for some of the wines.

2006 Castello dei Rampolla Toscana d’Alceo: Rich and dark fruits with blackberries and fresh herbs on the nose. What intensity. Full-bodied with firm tannins and a spicy finish. Very powerful at the finish. Goes on and on. So much dark fruit here. Wonderful character. Hard not to drink, but better in three or four years. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petit Verdot. 95 points.

2006 Castello dei Rampolla Toscana Sammarco: Very round and soft with a currant and blackberry character. Sexy delicious fruit. Spicy and earthy with a decadent and earthy finish, yet clear and bright with wonderful focus. Drink now, but will improve with age. Almost all Cabernet Sauvignon with a tiny bit of Merlot and Sangiovese. Half the price of d’Alceo. 94 points.

2008 Castello dei Rampolla Chianti Classico: What a delicious Chianti Classico. I like the chocolate, berry and meat aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and porcini mushroom undertones. Finishes with milk chocolate. Wonderful now. 90 points.

The wines were really delicious and impressive, and it was fascinating to taste them as Luca discussed his philosophies of viticulture and winemaking.

What I was also impressed with was that he refuses to promote that his wine estate is biodynamic. “I do it for myself,” he said. “I don’t need to market this or pay someone to certify my work.”

I have heard this from other winemakers, where they don’t make a big deal out of their biodynamic or organic viticulture, and I applaud them. It all seems even more real to me when it’s not about marketing; you know that it’s been done for the right reason.