Australia’s top winemakers seem incredibly attached to Europe. I know it’s not fair to generalize considering I have only been on the wine continent for the last four days. But everyone I have visited, from the Tyrrells to Julian Castagna to Rick Kinzbrunner of Giacondo to the Pizzinis, revere European wines. Not only do they go to Europe often, but they drink, compare and discuss the classics of Europe, from Northern Rhone Syrahs to Cote d’Or Pinots to Tuscan Sangioveses.
Just about every winery I visited had its collection of empty bottles – just like all of us – of those great inspiring bottles, and most were Rhone, Burgundy, Champagne, Piedmont, and Tuscan with the occasional first growth Bordeaux thrown in.
I keep on thinking about tasting a 2008 Giaconda Nebbiolo with the owner in his subterranean cellar and how he was keen to compare it to a Barolo.
“What area would be better to compare my wine to, La Morra or Serralunga?” he questioned.
I was certainly impressed. Out in the middle of nowhere in rural Australia, a winemaker is discussing the virtues of different Barolo subzones and how his wine might compare to them.
I thought the beautiful fruit and firmness of Barolos from Serralunga would be a good comparison. Rick immediately pulled out a 2001 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato from his personal cellar and poured the two wines side by side. His Nebbiolo compared beautifully.
Top Australian winemakers have such a passion for wine, and they clearly want to know how their wines stand up to the classics. That’s why many wines, whether Chardonnay or Syrah, are already as good as the classics of Europe, and sometimes better.
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