My Article: 2002 Salon - Perfection?

Champagne connoisseurs around the world have been waiting for the release of the Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cuvee S Les Mesnil 2002. In fact, the rare, pure Chardonnay Champagne has been aged about 11 years on its yeast before being disgorged and released. This is much longer than most top cuvee Champagnes, which are selling 2004, 2005, or 2006.

The 2002 is a fabulous vintage, clearly on the same level as the great and structured 1996. Salon is a unique Blanc de Blancs because it ages so well. It’s more like a top grand cru white Burgundy than a Champagne in structure with a great depth and density of fruit, bright linear backbone of acidity, and incredible length.

The 2002 Salon is phenomenal quality. I tasted it in New York City yesterday. I was mesmerized. It is a subtle and intense Champagne that shows complex character of lilac, minerals, sliced lemon, apple, and white pepper. It is full body and dense yet racy and agile with a lightness and freshness. It has a gloriously long finish. It changes every moment in the glass. It has such clarity. It’s magnificent to drink now, but shows great texture and structure for aging. 99 points.

Didier Depond, the head of Salon and Delamotte Champagnes, said that some top French critics such as Michelle Bettane said the 2002 Salon is comparable to the legendary 1982. I don’t agree. I think the 2002 is better. In fact, it is much more stylish, refined and complex than the 1982, which I always found rather heavy. I find the 2002 in style and structure closer to the 1997 and 1990, both of which are dense and lively Champagnes of amazing quality.

Only 62,000 bottles were made of the 2002 Salon as well as 5,000 magnums. It sells for about $400 a bottle in the United States. The total production is about 1 percent of Dom Perignon and 10 percent of Louis Roederer Cristal.

The next vintage will be 2004 followed by 2006, 2007 and 2008. Depond says 2008 is “Salon’s best ever” and will be sold only in magnums. They only have one more point to go for the perfect, young Champagne with the 2008, and 2002 is already very close to perfection indeed.