The recent Mornington Peninsula International Pinot Noir Celebration marks the seventh time this event has been staged, and this year’s offering evolved nicely towards embracing more great Pinot Noir from outside the home region, bringing greater numbers of great Australian Pinot Noir makers to the party.
Aside from the established tradition of a headline Burgundy tasting, a walk-around tasting of other Australian wineries and local makers, drew wines from as far afield as Western Australia, with plenty from the home state Victoria, Tasmania and a decent contingent from both South Australia and Tasmania.
On the Burgundy tip, a group of stunning wines from Domaine J.J. Confuron were presented as a finale of sorts, all from 2012. They offered clear connection to their various terroirs in a great vintage and were uniformly of above average quality. The Chambolle Villages and Grad Cru Clos Vougeot were both highlights.
The conference also took delegates out into the region, not simply for winery lunches and one terrific finale dinner at Port Phillip Estate; but this time into vineyards and wineries, for a greater experience of local terroir. Wines tasted in situ and the chance to interact with some of the region’s best winemakers on their home soil proved a welcome opportunity amid textbook pre-harvest weather.
Of the various tastings, the crowd favourite was the tasting involving six carefully chosen well established Pinot Noir ‘legends’ – Michael Dhillon (Bindi), Brian Croser (Tapanappa), James Lance (Punch), Rainer Brett (Curlewis), Geoff Bull (Freycinet) and Nat White (Main Ridge). Each of them represents a different experience and outlines a very personal journey with Pinot Noir making.
The diversity of stories in this session proved as diverse as the wines presented, but the laconic, self-deprecating legend of the Peninsula, Nat White, really stole the show. His story of establishing the first great Pinot Noir vineyard in the region and his elevation to seemingly accidental hero was as captivating as it was entertaining.
The quality of the Mornington Peninsula’s 2012 vintage Pinot wines was a highlight with well chosen examples scattered throughout the event, but the deeper story here was around the direction in which the region’s best wines are headed. These wines are delivering greater consistency and demonstrating an ability to express structure as a sense of boldness without compromising the sense of overall elegance.
Mornington Pinot Celebration Highlights:
Main Ridge Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Half Acre 2010
Kirsch-like red cherry and raspberry essence on offer with a cooler, fragrant edge and plenty of florals, almost chalky notes. A sense of decaying autumnal leaves too, chocolate, rose and anise. The palate has fine yet strong shape, plenty of cherry fruits and fine tannins. A long and composed palate. Terrific tannin density, red cherries abound, long and deep. 96 points
Hurley Garamond Pinot Noir 2010
This has a fine fragrant rose-like edge, a savoury note too, gentle red fruits, fine flinty stony elements and a gentle air of exotic alluring spice on offer. It’s innately complex. Impressive composure and depth on the seamless palate. Noble tannins carry long and build steady without sacrificing elegance. Fine but powerful. 97 points
J. J. Confuron Grand Cru Clos Vougeot 2012
Beautifully fragrant fruit aromas, ethereal and alluring, perfectly ripe red cherry, light red plum, mulberry, leaves, earth, spice and more – superior complexity here. The palate has superb depth, density and tannin frame, the power is effortless, it is packed with sweet fruit flavour and the acidity holds everything bright and long. 96 points
Kooyong Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir Ferrous 2012
Nicely articulated red fruit characters on offer with a very assertive oak layer. Some deep spice too. The winemaker intersects with terroir here. The palate delivers crisp, enveloping tannin and has a bold, masculine style. Dark cherry fruits run deep through the finish. 94 points
Sangreal By Farr Geelong Pinot Noir 2012
The complex fragrant whole bunch edge is staggering. There is a leafy sappy undergrowth side here, liquorice and some sous bois. The palate is long, detailed and has a wealth of tannin expressed amid supple, silky round ripe dark cherry fruit, plum too. Holds very long. A masterpiece. 98 points
Tolpuddle Vineyard Coal River Pinot Noir 2013
A statement of the clarity and power that is possible in this valley just outside Hobart. This packs powerful cherry and plum fruit, nicely dealt oak spice and clever fragrant complexity. The palate is succulent, tannins are silky smooth but dense and reliable. Very convincing Pinot. 96 points
Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.
