New Zealand’s Master of Chardonnay

Michael Brajkovich MW and his selection

Michael Brajkovich may well be New Zealand’s first Master of Wine, but he is first and foremost the Master of Chardonnay.

Few winemakers are equally obsessed with the science and the enjoyment of great chardonnay as Brajkovich. His ability to make this pungently expressive, captivating and delicious white juice at Kumeu River Wines  is a thing of wonder. The fact that he does it year on year is akin to a vinous miracle.

Of course he has both his mother (and commander) Melba and his late-father Mate to thank. It was their vision to plant chardonnay in Kumeu and their persistence that established its reputation for greatness upon which all four siblings—Michael, Paul, Milan and Marijana—stand tall upon today. And tall they are!

Kumeu River’s latest chardonnays

I caught up with Michael Brajkovich at the annual Winetopia tasting in Auckland where we grabbed a quiet moment to taste through the latest range of wines and talk about the latest in Kumeu. He poured a flight of 5 chardonnays, the village being 2016 and the other four all from the excellent 2015 vintage.

The family has bought a new vineyard in Hawke’s Bay, which also is known for chardonnay. I’ve always wondered what kind of magic Brajkovich’s talent-laden hands could work in another region and in a terroir of more widely recognised pedigree. Looks like Bacchus granted that wish, and soon we’ll see what Hawke’s Bay chardonnay can be in the hands of one of New Zealand’s great winemakers. —Nick Stock, Contributing Editor