My Article: Just What Is Dry Sauternes?

I did a quick tasting of a few top dry white Sauternes in Zurich yesterday, and I have to ask myself, what is dry white Sauternes?

Some were slightly oxidized. Some tasted spicy yet dry with dried fruits, like rich Sauternes without the sweetness. And then some – the ones I liked the best – were like top white dry Bordeaux. The two that stood out for me were: Le Sec de Rayne Vigneau and Doisy-Daëne Bordeaux Sec.

I recently had dinner with the owner and winemaker of Doisy-Daëne, Denis Dubourdieu, and he said that it was difficult to make great dry whites in Sauternes and Barsac because the soils and climate are not like the excellent ones in regions such as Pessac-Leognan, which is home to greats like Haut-Brion, La Mission, Domaine de Chevalier and Smith Haut Lafitte. Yet, his dry white tastes like a top Pessac-Leognan! Maybe he was talking about others rather than himself? 😉

I am not an expert on the soil or climate of Sauternes and Barsac, but I think that dry Sauternes should taste like great dry white Bordeaux. I am not a fan of heavy, marzipan, dried spice character in old style Sauternes dry whites. I am also not a fan of over-manipulated dry whites with lots of malolactic character or too much new wood, as attractive as they may be to some.

Here are my notes for the wines I tasted: 

Chateau Doisy-Daene Bordeaux Blanc Sec 2011

Clos des Lunes Bordeaux Lune d’Argent La Grande Cuvée 2013

Chateau d’Yquem Bordeaux Superieur ‘Y’ Ygrec 2011

Chateau de Rayne Vigneau Bordeaux Le Sec de Rayne Vigneau 2011

Chateau Suduiraut Bordeaux S de Suduiraut Blanc Sec 2011

Chateau Guiraud Bordeaux Le G de Chateau Guiraud Blanc Sec 2011

Chateau Rieussec Bordeaux R de Rieussec Blanc Sec 2011

Chateau Coutet Bordeaux Opalie de Coutet 2011

Chateau Coutet Bordeaux Vin Sec de Coutet Cuvêe Frédéric 2012

Image courtesy of Rayne Vigneau.