JS 2021年百大葡萄酒榜单

Vincent Hung为我们香港的办公室准备一天的酒样

对于JamesSuckling.com的品酒团队来说,这是伟大一年。 在过去12个月里,我们对近25000款葡萄酒进行了评分,数量上来看这是我们的历史记录。我们发现了如此多令人激动的美酒——从2018年波尔多和Napa的红葡萄酒到2020年的德国和奥地利的白葡萄酒,更不用说来自阿根廷、澳大利亚、加利福尼亚、意大利和新西兰的其他顶级佳酿。此外,我们还发现了一些来自智利、匈牙利、葡萄牙和南非的宝藏。

出于疫情原因,我们一整年在香港的办公室里品酒。酒庄通过航空寄样,使其变得容易许多。毕竟,香港不对葡萄酒征收关税。这也让我们这一年更加专注于品酒,并与酒庄酿酒师和负责人进行远程连线,一起品尝和讨论这些美酒。我们也一直通过我们的社交媒体分享美酒和葡萄酒行业的动态,特别是Instagram。我们的Instagram拥有近30万粉丝,也是全球葡萄酒界最受关注的社交平台之一。此外,我们的网站JamesSuckling.com的订阅数也持续增长。

今年我们全球百大葡萄酒的最重要的参考标准是绝对质量,这就是为什么没有任何一款酒得分低于98分的原因;其次,第二个衡量标准是产量,这些葡萄酒的最低产量必须达到4000瓶,否则它们将很难被消费者购买、欣赏;第三个因素则是价格,高分低价是我们和消费者的愿望。最后,我们要考虑品鉴者的“Wow Factor”,即一款葡萄酒是否能在我们品尝时便带给我们一种兴奋感和冲击感,留下深刻的印象。

READ MORE: OUR TOP 100 WINES OF 2020

榜单前十

今年我们评分的25000款酒中一共诞生了38款满分酒,它们都是伟大的年份、风土和酿造工艺的结合。今年的“年度最佳葡萄酒”是一款来自新西兰的霞多丽——Kumeu River Chardonnay Kumeu Maté’s Vineyard 2020,这也是第一次一款白葡萄酒成为我们的年度最佳葡萄酒!

虽然大多数人认为新西兰最好的葡萄酒大多是黑比诺,甚至是长相思,但我们一直看好霞多丽的潜力,其表现是世界级的,完全可以和最好的勃艮第一较高低。

我第一次去新西兰是在2012年10月,我对这个国家纯粹的自然美景感到敬畏。我记得我们大约用了10天参观了所有主要的葡萄酒产区和许多顶级酒庄。我们品尝了非常多纯净、精良的葡萄酒,但只有少数展现了伟大葡萄园给酒带来的复杂性和自然的特点。其中一个便是Brajkovich家族的Kumeu River酒庄,他们可谓世界上最有天赋的酿酒师和庄主。

在新冠大流行之前,特约编辑Nick Stock每年都会到新西兰几次。可以说,我们都是都Kumeu River霞多丽的粉丝。另一位特约编辑Stuart Pigott在伦敦参加了一次2006到2017年的11个年份的单一园垂直品鉴会后(Kumeu有三个单一园),也对Kumeu River的陈年实力感到震惊。

READ MORE TOP OF THE WORLD: THE CONSISTENTLY STUNNING KUMEU RIVER CHARDONNAYS

Brajkovich家族拥有约30公顷的自有葡萄园,并和当地酒农长期合作,购买大约10公顷的葡萄。酒庄每年生产约25万瓶葡萄酒。Maté这个单一葡萄园以庄主已故父亲的名字命名,占地约2.6公顷。这也是他们最古老的葡萄园,种植于20世纪90年代初。

酒庄位于北岛奥克兰的北部,气候非常凉爽,大多数夏天的气温都尚未达到30摄氏度。明朗的天气和充足的阳光使葡萄在大多数年份缓慢成熟。葡萄园土壤中的高粘土含量也让这种凉爽气候更容易反映在葡萄酒中。一般来说,这里比勃艮第还要凉爽得多,尤其在如今全球变暖的情况下。

Kumeu River的所有霞多丽都采用整串压榨,并用野生酵母发酵,酒泥接触时间接近一年,而新橡木桶的使用受到限制。这就是为什么这些葡萄酒既新鲜爽脆又成熟复杂的原因,而Kumeu River Chardonnay Kumeu Maté’s Vineyard 2020展现了无与伦比的力量和复杂性。我称之为“新西兰的蒙哈榭”,而且每瓶售价却只有50多美元!

READ MORE: JAMES’ 2012 KUMEU RIVER ADVENTURE AND INTERVIEW WITH MICHAEL BRAJKOVICH

左:James与副编辑 Claire Nesbitt(左后)和品鉴者Andrii Stetsiuk的日常品酒;右:特约编辑Stuart Pigott和副编辑Nathan Slone品尝多瑙河畔的佳酿

排在榜单第二的葡萄酒Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ceniprimo 2018也极具象征意义,这也是一款Chianti Classico首次进入年度前十。它突出了Gran Selezione的卓越品质。Ceniprimo这个单一葡萄园的葡萄酒以其透明、细滑的结构和近乎空灵的优雅气质让人欲罢不能。著名的Barone Ricasoli家族可以说是Chianti Classico的开山鼻祖,在19世纪70年代定义了Chianti Classico的传统调配。

Dönnhoff Riesling Nahe Hermannshöhle GG 2020排在榜单第三,是德国最出色的顶级单一园雷司令之一。Dönnhoff家族在这个陡峭山坡的葡萄园中酿出了世界上最引人注目的干白葡萄酒。Dönnhoff也经常出现在我们的百大榜单中。去年,Dönnhoff Riesling Nahe Dellchen 2019在百大葡萄酒中排名第七。Hermannshöhle GG 2020除了成熟的水蜜桃、白梨的美妙香气,更具备迷人的咸味和矿物底调。

Dönnhoff的Hermannshöhle GG特级葡萄园

完美的高平衡

我仍然记得特约编辑Nick Stock给我发的一封关于Mount Mary Yarra Valley Quitet 2019的邮件,这款酒也是我们今年榜单的第四名。在邮件中,Nick写到:天呐,简直太棒了!” 这款波尔多混酿由44%的赤霞珠、30%的美乐、6%的品丽珠、5%的马尔贝克和5%的小味儿多组成,是我们这一年来在澳大利亚尝到的最伟大的葡萄酒之一,绝对是澳洲一级庄品质。Nick认为这款酒浓缩、但具有完美的高平衡。

“完美的高平衡”一词用在Aubert Chardonnay Napa Valley Sugar Shack Estate Vineyard 2019也完全不为过,这款酒位列我们榜单第五。这种纯手工打造的霞多丽展现出令人难以置信的精准和深度。庄主兼酿酒师的Mark Aubert可谓美国最杰出的霞多丽酿造者,他对葡萄栽培和酿酒的细节如数家珍。他对酿酒过程的每个细节的了解和精确程度让我想到瑞士最出色的钟表制造商。

Continuum Napa Valley Sage Mountain Vineyard 2018位列榜单第6位,这款波尔多混酿突出了纳帕谷2018年的伟大之处——和谐。Continuum在山坡的葡萄园以有机种植的葡萄酿制出了令人难以置信的美酒。经验丰富的酿酒师、庄主Tim Mondavi和他的女儿Carissa和Chiara酿制的葡萄酒以精准的方式表达了Pritchard Hill这个子产区的魅力。这些葡萄酒既有强劲的口感,又纯净透明,且具有长度。

James和团队编辑们在一年里与世界各地的酿酒师进行线上连线,一同品尝和讨论酒样

Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2008是我所品尝过的最具结构的一个年份,也是我最喜欢的白中白的顶级调配(Presitige Cuvée)之一。这款满分酒排在我们今年榜单的第七名。出色的2008年赋予这款香槟紧密浓缩的风味和细密的气泡,精细的酚类风味触动着味蕾,且充满活力。这款Comtes de Champagne现在已经非常适饮,但它会像一款伟大的霞多丽一样在未来几十年中出色陈年。

榜单第8名的Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta 2015显然是我们品尝过最棒的年轻Amarone,它也充分告诉我们这个以厚重、高酒精闻名的产区如何变得更加精准和平衡。当然,它仍然非常浓郁,正如它应该的那样,但这款酒的单宁很好地勾勒出了果味的轮廓,包括一系列的复杂香气和风味,包括焦油、李子、枣、醋栗、苦橙利口酒、陈年香脂、新鲜烘焙香草、肉桂、烤栗子、红茶和甘草。我们漏掉了什么吗?品酒编辑Jo Cooke评价这款酒“像沥青一样黝黑,像往常一样浓缩,带有焦油香脂,却无比平衡,尽管只有狂热的葡萄酒爱好者才会迫不及待地现在就开瓶饮用!”

READ MORE AMARONE, SOAVE AND MORE: VENETO SPREADS ITS WINE WINGS

左:副编辑帅泽堃一年内主要将注意力集中在中国和西班牙产区的葡萄酒;右:品酒编辑Jo Cooke主要品尝了欧洲地区的葡萄酒
榜单第六名Continuum Napa Valley Sage Mountain Vineyard 2018体现了纳帕2018年冷凉年份的伟大之处

个性与和谐

排在榜单第9的是Dominus Napa Valley 2018,这也是我个人最喜欢的美国红葡萄酒之一。Dominus的所有者Christian Moueix、酿酒师Tod Mostero和其他团队成员都知道如何巧妙地让他们在纳帕Yountville的葡萄园既表达个性,又呈现和谐。2018年份这样一个漫长的生长季节也显得至关重要。品尝这款葡萄酒如坐魔毯。它轻盈而飘逸,口感无比丝滑。

Château Trotanoy Pomerol 2018为这个榜单前十收尾。这款满分葡萄酒的价格相比这个年份其他满分波尔多来说更加平易近人,尽管每瓶的价格仍略高于300美元(毕竟,顶级波尔多的价格不菲)。

这款堪称传奇的波尔多佳酿展现了该年份顶级葡萄酒的那种温暖与华丽,但一直保持着一种不可思议的张力和集中感,具有完美的深度与浓缩的风味。

特约编辑 Nick Stock(左)在澳洲巴罗萨山谷品酒;右图为我们的品鉴者兼总监William McIlhenny(图右)和 Oskar Bynke(图左)在纽约州的 Hermann J. Wiemer酒庄

涨价压力

今年的百大榜单让我想到世界上的顶级葡萄酒的价格是如何由于需求而快速上涨的。在新冠大流行期间,人们也开瓶饮用了更多的顶级葡萄酒。与此同时,气候变化正在为顶级酒的生产带来更大压力。我预计精品葡萄酒的价格会在未来几个月继续上涨。

幸运的是,许多国家的一些顶级酒庄在定价上一直具有优势,特别是阿根廷、澳大利亚、奥地利、德国和新西兰等地。我们也会继续增加对这些产区的报道。

今年百大榜单的大赢家是法国,有22款葡萄酒上榜,主要是2018年的波尔多。美国稳居第二,有21款葡萄酒上榜,也以2018年的纳帕红葡萄酒为主。意大利以15款顶级葡萄酒紧随其后,之后是德国的12款。澳大利亚占据7个席位,阿根廷、西班牙和智利各占5个。新西兰有三款葡萄酒入榜,奥地利两款,匈牙利、葡萄牙和南非各有一款。

接下来的一个月,请继续关注来自阿根廷、奥地利、澳大利亚、智利、中国、法国、德国、意大利、新西兰、西班牙和美国这11个国家的百大榜单。我们过去一年品尝到的这1100款令人惊叹的葡萄酒也一定会让你对世界顶级佳酿有更深入的了解。

– James Suckling, Chairman/Editor

Tasting Notes

1
Kumeu River Chardonnay Kumeu Mate's Vineyard 2020

Country New Zealand
Region Kumeu
Vintage 2020
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2
Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ceniprimo 2018

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2018
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3
Dönnhoff Riesling Nahe Hermannshöhle GG 2020

Country Germany
Region Nahe
Vintage 2020
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4
Mount Mary Yarra Valley Quintet 2019

Country Australia
Region Victoria
Vintage 2019
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5
Aubert Chardonnay Napa Valley Sugar Shack Estate Vineyard 2019

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2019
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6
Continuum Napa Valley Sage Mountain Vineyard 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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7
Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2008

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage 2008
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8
Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta 2015

Country Italy
Region Veneto
Vintage 2015
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9
Dominus Napa Valley 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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10
Château Trotanoy Pomerol 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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11
Bodega Lanzaga Rioja Las Beatas 2018

Country Spain
Region La Rioja
Vintage 2018
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12
Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Gold Cap 2019

Country Germany
Region Mosel
Vintage 2019
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13
Yangarra Grenache McLaren Vale Ovitelli 2019

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2019
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14
Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rheingau Grünlack Spätlese 2020

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2020
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15
Cristom Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Eola-Amity Hills Jessie Vineyard 2018

Country United States
Region Oregon
Vintage 2018
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16
Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Hölle 2019

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2019
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17
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Nahe Halenberg GG 2020

Country Germany
Region Nahe
Vintage 2020
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18
F.X. Pichler Riesling Wachau Ried Kellerberg 2020

Country Austria
Region Danube
Vintage 2020
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19
Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Mount Veeder 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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20
Foradori Manzoni Bianco Vigneti delle Dolomiti Fontanasanta 2020

Country Italy
Region Trentino-Alto Adige
Vintage 2020
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21
Moric Blaufränkisch Burgenland Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben 2019

Country Austria
Region Burgenland
Vintage 2019
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22
Tenuta Sette Ponti Toscana Oreno 2019

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2019
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23
Künstler Riesling Rheingau Hölle GG 2020

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2020
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24
Fattoria Le Pupille Maremma Toscana Saffredi 2019

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2019
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25
Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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26
Adelina Shiraz Clare Valley 2020

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2020
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27
Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto 2016

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2016
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28
Domaine Weinbach Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine 2019

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2019
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29
Realm Cellars Napa Valley Stags Leap District Moonracer 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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30
Bouchard Père & Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Domaine 2019

Country France
Region Burgundy
Vintage 2019
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31
Krug Champagne Brut 2008

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage 2008
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32
Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d'Oro Riserva 2016

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2016
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33
Leitz Riesling Rheingau Berg Schlossberg GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2019
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34
Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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35
RAEN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Fort Ross-Seaview Sea Field Vineyard 2019

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2019
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36
Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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37
Littorai Pinot Noir Sonoma County Sonoma Coast The Haven Vineyard 2019

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2019
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38
Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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39
Penfolds Shiraz South Australia St Henri 2018

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2018
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40
Quintessa Napa Valley Rutherford 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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41
Susana Balbo Wines Malbec Agrelo Nosotros Single Vineyard Nómade 2017

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2017
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42
Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Insignia 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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43
Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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44
Colgin Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Tychson Hill 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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45
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St.-Julien 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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46
Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Riesling Pfalz Pechstein GC 2020

Country Germany
Region Pfalz
Vintage 2020
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47
Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Argentino 2019

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2019
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48
Eredi Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2016
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49
Antica Terra Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Antikythera 2018

Country United States
Region Oregon
Vintage 2018
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50
Dana Estates Napa Valley Lotus Vineyard 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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51
Château Margaux Margaux 2018

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2018
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52
Zuccardi Malbec Valle de Uco Paraje Altamira Finca Piedra Infinita 2018

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2018
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53
L’If St.-Emilion 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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54
Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse St.-Emilion 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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55
Opus One Napa Valley 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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56
Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Baden Wildenstein GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2019
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57
BOND Napa Valley Vecina 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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58
Harlan Estate Napa Valley 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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59
Château Lafleur Pomerol 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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60
Christmann Riesling Pfalz Idig GG 2020

Country Germany
Region Pfalz
Vintage 2020
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61
Bibi Graetz Toscana Colore 2019

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2019
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62
K Vintners Syrah Yakima Valley Motor City Kitty 2018

Country United States
Region Washington
Vintage 2018
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63
Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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64
Château Léoville Las Cases St.-Julien 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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65
Petrolo Valdarno di Sopra Galatrona 2019

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2019
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66
Château L'Église Clinet Pomerol 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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67
Viña Cobos Malbec Los Arboles Valle de Uco Chañares Estate 2018

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2018
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68
Futo Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Stags Leap District 5500 Estate 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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69
López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia White 2010

Country Spain
Region La Rioja
Vintage 2010
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70
Manincor Sauvignon Alto Adige Lieben Aich 2019

Country Italy
Region Trentino-Alto Adige
Vintage 2019
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71
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir Martinborough 2019

Country New Zealand
Region Martinborough
Vintage 2019
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72
Quinta do Vale Meão Douro 2018

Country Portugal
Region Douro
Vintage 2018
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73
Clonakilla Syrah Canberra District Murrumbateman 2019

Country Australia
Region New South Wales
Vintage 2019
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74
Rippon Pinot Noir Central Otago Rippon 2018

Country New Zealand
Region Central Otago
Vintage 2018
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75
Viñedo Chadwick Cabernet Sauvignon Valle de Maipo 2019

Country Chile
Region Valle Central
Vintage 2019
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76
Granja de Nuestra Señora de Remelluri Rioja Blanco 2018

Country Spain
Region La Rioja
Vintage 2018
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77
Château Bélair-Monange St.-Emilion 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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78
Emiliana Valle de Colchagua Los Robles Estate Gê 2018

Country Chile
Region Valle Central
Vintage 2018
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79
Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Nahe Felseneck GG 2020

Country Germany
Region Nahe
Vintage 2020
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80
Domaine Zind Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Brand 2019

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2019
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81
Château Trottevieille St.-Emilion 2018

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2018
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82
Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello 2017

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2017
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83
Artadi Álava Viña El Pison 2018

Country Spain
Region Álava
Vintage 2018
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84
Montes Carmenere Petit Verdot Valle de Colchagua Purple Angel 2018

Country Chile
Region Valle Central
Vintage 2018
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85
Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Madonna del Piano Riserva 2016

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2016
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86
Tyrrell's Semillon Hunter Valley Vat 1 2021

Country Australia
Region New South Wales
Vintage 2021
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87
Trapiche Malbec Cabernet Franc Mendoza Iscay 2017

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2017
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88
Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero Reserva Especial Unico

Country Spain
Region Castilla y León
Vintage No Vintage
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89
Hyde de Villaine Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Hyde Vineyard 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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90
Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012

Country Italy
Region Veneto
Vintage 2012
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91
Renieri Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2016
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92
Torbreck Shiraz Barossa Valley The Factor 2018

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2018
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93
Robert Weil Riesling Rheingau Kiedrich Gräfenberg GG 2020

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2020
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94
Viña Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto 2019

Country Chile
Region Valle Central
Vintage 2019
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95
Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé Vintage 2008

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage 2008
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96
Chacra Pinot Noir Patagonia Cincuenta y Cinco 2020

Country Chile
Region Valle Central
Vintage 2020
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97
Famille Hugel Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schoenenbourg Grossi Laüe 2015

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2015
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98
Klein Constantia Constantia Vin de Constance Natural Sweet Wine 2018

Country South Africa
Region Coastal Region
Vintage 2018
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99
Azelia Barolo Cerretta 2017

Country Italy
Region Piedmont
Vintage 2017
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100
Royal Tokaji Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Nyulászó 2017

Country Hungary
Region Tokaj
Vintage 2017
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