I was deeply honored to receive an honorary citizenship to the city of Montalcino last Saturday. The city council awarded me the distinction for my years of rating and covering the wines of the area, particularly Brunello di Montalcino. I was so happy and grateful when the 250 people in the room – mostly wine producers – gave me a standing ovation.
I gave a short speech in the municipal theater of Montalcino. I told the crowd that the first time I came to Montalcino was in 1983, about two years after I started working for The Wine Spectator. A dear friend who passed away a few years ago, Philip DiBerlardino invited me to travel to Italy to visit all the key winemaking regions, from Piedmont to Sicily. I borrowed USD $1,000 from my mother to go on this trip, and it changed my life. (I paid her back in a year!)
James had always believed in the quality of Brunello. And now, he has been awarded an honorary citizenship to Montalcino.
Philip and I visited the top producers in each region, but what really struck me was the day I spent in Montalcino. On this particular day, we visited the two leading producers Caparzo and Conti Costanti. The winemakers’ passion and precision in Montalcino were comparable only to that of the best in the world. However, at the time, there were only about two dozen wineries. The region was still under the radar to say the least, except for the big names like Franco Biondi Santi, who created the Brunello di Montalcino in the late 1800s.
Whenever I look back, I always remember the light, energy and beauty of Montalcino, which were what really impressed me. The wines were not that great yet, and some smelled like old barrels and dried cheese! However, nevertheless, the wines and place were extremely unique, showing great potential. And the people were also exceptionally thoughtful and welcoming. As a professionally trained journalist, I could feel it in my heart.
I vowed to return to Montalcino after that trip. And about a year later, I came back to further explore this beautiful region as the European Bureau Chief for The Wine Spectator in Paris. To give credit to The Wine Spectator, the owner of the magazine Marvin Shanken was a big fan of Brunello, too. Whenever I wrote features or sent in ratings to the office in New York, he was more than pleased.
Not long after, I realized that I had fell in love with Montalcino, and that Americans were also falling head over heels for this region. The idiosyncratic wines of Montalcino, such as Brunello, quickly caught the attention of millions of readers of The Wine Spectator. At that time, it seemed like no matter what I wrote on the region, the readers all wanted more of everything – my words, as well as the wines.
In 1998, I managed to convince the magazine to let me move to Tuscany with my two children and wife. From just the barrel tastings, I could see that the 1997 was going to be a benchmark vintage of Italy, particularly Tuscany. I also thought that Brunello would be one of the key reference points. And it was.
Famed for its Brunello di Montalcino wine, Montalcino is a stunning hill town and comune in Tuscany, Italy.
The rest is history as most of you know. Today, Brunello is Italy’s most famous and premium wine appellation, and America is the biggest export market for the wine.
I am elated that I was one of the first to report on what was effectively the birth of a unique premium wine appellation, which has now captured the attention of the world. And I appreciate the city of Montalcino so much for awarding me this honorary citizenship and acknowledging that the spotlight that I helped cast on their fair city, as well as changing the lives and fortunes of thousands of people as the economy grew.
I am so humbled and joyed. And I look forward to the many years ahead, walking the streets, vineyards and cellars of Montalcino! – James Suckling, Editor/CEO
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