Israel’s Unique Wine Blend: Innovative Spirit with Mediterranean Elan

Domaine du Castel's Grand Vin 2018 is made from a Bordeaux-style blend and set a benchmark for Israel's winemakers. (left) | The barrel cellar of Domaine de Castel. (right)

After tasting more than a hundred current releases from Israel, I am seriously amazed by what rapid progress the leading winemakers of this Eastern Mediterranean country have made since my first tasting trip there in the fall of 2014. Not only are many of the new wines worthy of attention, they also begin to reflect the enormous geographical diversity and amazing cultural melting pot of this country, which invented the USB stick and drip irrigation, among other things.

Just take a look at the two highest-rated wines in this report, the 2018 Grand Vin from Domaine du Castel and the 2018 red from Razi’el. The former is a Bordeaux-style blend based on the cabernet sauvignon grape that was first produced in 1992 and remains a benchmark for the country, while the latter is just the second vintage of a new blend of the grenache and carignan grapes that originate in Spain, at the other end of the Mediterranean. These world-class wines taste radically different, although both were made by the same winemaker: Eli-Gilbert Ben-Zaken.

For anyone who only knows Israel from summer days on the beaches of Tel Aviv, it could be hard to believe that sophisticated wines can be produced in this climate. However, the best vineyards lie at altitudes of 250 meters to almost 1,200 meters above sea level, and the average temperature falls about 0.6 degrees Celsius, or about 1 degree Fahrenheit, with each hundred meters that you climb. That means they have average temperatures from 1.5 to 7 degrees Celsius cooler than Tel Aviv!

That climate analysis comes from 2015 research by Israel’s first Master of Wine, Eran Pick of Tzora Vineyards in the Judean Hills region. It was necessary to rely on the winemakers for most of the information used for this story, since there are no official statistics except for crop tonnages. That situation has a lot to do with the youthfulness of the Israeli wine industry, a paradoxical situation given the ancient roots of winemaking in the Eastern Mediterranean.

The modern industry was founded by Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, who planted the first experimental vineyards in 1884, when what is now Israel was part of the Ottoman Empire. The focus was on red Mediterranean and Bordeaux grape varieties, but only carignan really caught on. Until the boutique winery boom of the 1990s, when significant areas of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay were planted, it was the dominant grape variety. In Israel old vines for reds means carignan, and for whites it means either semillon or french colombard. There are no indigenous wine grape varieties, but some local table grape varieties exist and a couple of winemakers are experimenting with them.

On top of this, in exciting wine regions such as the Upper Galilee or the Judean Hills, the number of hours with temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius (86 Fahrenheit) during July, August and September – the crucial three months for grape development – is lower than in Lodi, California, or the Barossa Valley in South Australia. Much of the best cabernet sauvignon in Israel grows there. It is the most widely planted red wine grape, with about 20 percent of the 5,500 hectares of vineyards. In the highest-altitude vineyards of the Golan Heights, the number of hot hours in summer is lower than in St. Émilion in Bordeaux!

Eran Pick, winemaker and general manager of Tzora Vineyards. (Photo from Instagram)
Riesling vines of Sphera Valley.
Vineyards of Sphera Valley.

The wines in this report are the work of a highly diverse group of winemakers and reflect these roots. For example, Pick, whose red Misty Hills 2018 is one of the highest-rated wines in this report, started out as a helicopter pilot in the Israeli Air Force. Then a chance encounter with the riesling wines of Germany’s Mosel region in 1996 changed his life. Like many Israeli winemakers, he studied at the University of Caifornia, Davis, graduating in 2006. His reds are blends of syrah with Bordeaux grapes, and this, together with the shallow rock limestone soil of Tzora’s Shoresh vineyard, gives his wines a unique flavor profile.

Assaf Paz of the Vitkin winery was the first winemaker in Israel to graduate from the University of Bordeaux’s oenology department, and he is also one of the leading proponents of Mediterranean grape varieties, both as blends and varietal wines. His vineyards are scattered across the country’s wine regions, but all his wines impressed us and rated very well.

Ze’ev Dunie of Seahorse Winery shares that Mediterranean obsession, and his Chateauneuf du Pape-inspired red Rhone blend, Antoine 2016, was another standout wine, as was his equally complex and original Chenin Blanc James 2013. He used to be a studio technician in New York and a documentary filmmaker. If I dug further into their backgrounds and those of other leading winemakers, this picture would become more colorful!

Every time you think there is an easy logic to Israeli wine, you bump into a striking exception. For example, reds dominate wine production, but Doron Rav Hon’s Sphera winery, just southwest of Jerusalem and founded in 2012, only produces dry whites. Theoretically, elegant and aromatic dry whites are the toughest call in this warm Mediterranean climate, but we were very impressed by Rav Hon’s wines from the chardonnay, chenin blanc, riesling, sauvignon blanc and semillon grapes. Through the precise choice of vineyard location and attributes – a valley floor where cold air collects at night, with deep soil and the precise use of irrigation – he cracked it.

If Israeli winemakers have anything in common, it is this spirit of innovation.

– Staurt Pigott, Senior Editor

Note: We are well aware of the deep conflicts that trouble in Israel and the Middle East as a whole, but this story is about wine, rather than politics or religion – a policy we apply to every country and region we report on.

Tasting Notes

Domaine du Castel Haute Judée Grand Vin 2018

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2018
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Razi’el Haute Judée 2018

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2018
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Tzora Vineyards Judean Hills Misty Hills 2018

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2018
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Domaine du Castel Haute Judée Grand Vin 2017

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2017
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Flam Galilee Noble 2018

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2018
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Razi’el Haute Judée 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Seahorse Winery Chenin Blanc Israel James 2013

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2013
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Seahorse Winery Israel Antoine Tête de Cuvée 2016

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2016
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Seahorse Winery Israel Underground Kafka 2014

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2014
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Seahorse Winery Judean Hills Lennon 2018

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2018
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Sphera Judean Hills White Signature 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Yatir Winery Judean Hills Yatir Forest 2017

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2017
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Carmel Signature Israel Limited Edition 2017

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2017
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Flam Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee Reserve 2018

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2018
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Seahorse Winery Chenin Blanc Israel James 2016

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2016
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Seahorse Winery Judean Hills Lennon 2016

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2016
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Sphera Judean Hills White Concepts First Page 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Sphera Judean Hills White Signature 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Sphera Riesling Judean Hills White Concepts 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Sphera Sauvignon Blanc Judean Hills White Concepts 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Tulip Syrah Israel Reserve 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Tzora Vineyards Judean Hills Shoresh Red 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Vitkin Carignan Israel Old Vines 2018

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2018
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee El Rom Vineyard 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Syrah Galilee Allone Habashan Vineyard 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yatir Winery Judean Hills Yatir Mt. Amasa 2018

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2018
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Carmel Signature Galilee Mediterranean 2018

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2018
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Carmel Signature Petite Sirah Israel Single Vineyards Guvrin 2018

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2018
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Domaine du Castel Haute Judée C Blanc du Castel 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Domaine du Castel Haute Judée Petit Castel 2018

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2018
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Maia Israel Mare Nostrum 2017

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2017
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Seahorse Winery Chenin Blanc Judean Hills In Territory 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Seahorse Winery Judean Hills Elul 2010

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2010
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Sphera Chardonnay Judean Hills White Concepts 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Sphera Chardonnay Judean Hills White Concepts 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Sphera Judean Hills White Concepts First Page 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Sphera Riesling Judean Hills White Concepts 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Tulip Franc Merlot Israel Reserve 2018

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2018
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Tzora Vineyards Judean Hills Shoresh White 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Vitkin Grenache Blanc Galilee Collector’s Edition 2020

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2020
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Vitkin Grenache Israel Collector’s Edition 2018

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2018
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Vortman Israel Shfeya Valley 2015

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2015
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee Bar’on Vineyard 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Carmel Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Israel Single Vineyard Admon 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Carmel Signature Carignan Israel Single Vineyards Old Vine 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Domaine du Castel Haute Judée Petit Castel 2017

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2017
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Flam Syrah Galilee Reserve 2018

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2018
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Kishor Israel Metzudat Tefen 2017

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2017
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Kishor Viognier Israel 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Razi’el Haute Judée Rosé 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Seahorse Winery Syrah Israel In Territory 2017

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2017
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Sphera Sauvignon Blanc Judean Hills White Concepts 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Tulip Chardonnay Israel Mata 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Tulip Galilee Black Tulip 2018

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2018
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Tzora Vineyards Judean Hills 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Tzora Vineyards Judean Hills White 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Vortman Semillon Israel 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Chardonnay Galilee Odem Organic Vineyard 2019

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2019
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Galilee Allone Habshan Vineyard 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Galilee Bar’on Vineyard 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Carmel Signature Israel Mediterranean 4 Vats 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Domaine du Castel Haute Judée C Blanc du Castel 2018

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2018
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Domaine du Castel Haute Judée Rosé du Castel 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Flam Judean Hills Classico 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Kishor Syrah Israel 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Maia Israel Mare Red 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Razi’el Haute Judée Rosé 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Tulip Sauvignon Israel Net 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Vitkin Israel Pink Israeli Journey 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Vitkin Israel Red Israeli Journey 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Vitkin Israel White Israeli Journey 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Vortman Malbec Israel 2017

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2017
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee Allone Habshan Vineyard 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Chardonnay Galilee 2019

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2019
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Syrah Galilee 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yatir Winery Judean Hills Yatir Creek White 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Domaine du Castel Haute Judée Rosé du Castel 2019

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2019
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Flam Judean Hills Blanc 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Kishor Israel GSM 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Seahorse Winery Counoise Israel Pure KU 2017

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2017
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Seahorse Winery Israel Oz 2018

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2018
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Tulip Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee 2020

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2020
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Tulip Israel Red Espero 2018

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2018
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Tulip Israel White Tulip 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Vortman Colombard Israel 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Vortman Israel Shfeya Valley Pet Nat 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Galilee Katzrin 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Galilee Rosé 2020

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2020
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Malbec Galilee 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Petit Verdot Galilee 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Carmel Signature Syrah Israel Single Vineyards Concrete Pureness 2018

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2018
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Flam Judean Hills Blanc Camellia 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Tulip Israel Espero White 2019

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2019
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Tulip Merlot Israel 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Vortman Carignan Israel 2016

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2016
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Cabernet Franc Galilee 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Pinot Gris Galilee 2020

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2020
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Touriga Nacional Tinta Cao Galilee T2 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Kishor Israel White 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Kishor Riesling Israel 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Maia Israel Mare White 2020

Country Israel
Region Israel
Vintage 2020
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Tulip Judean Hills White Franc 2020

Country Israel
Region Judean Hills
Vintage 2020
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Merlot Galilee 2017

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2017
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Yarden (Golan Heights Winery) Galilee Blanc de Blancs 2014

Country Israel
Region Galilee
Vintage 2014
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