Hungary Annual Report: Growing Locally, Dreaming Globally
You are going to need to learn the word “kekfrankos” if you want to understand what is exciting about Hungarian wine. It’s a local grape variety that makes complex and fresh reds as well as delicious and structured blends.
By the way, kekfrankos is blaufrankisch, so you probably already know it. Countries like Austria have made a name for themselves with the grape, and bottles from winemakers such as Moric and Dorli Muhr are highly sought after around the world, particularly in trendy wine bars and wine-focused restaurants because the fresh reds go so well with a variety of cuisines.
After a number of trips to Hungary over the last five years, it really struck me this year how Hungary is making some extremely exciting and diverse reds with its local varieties as well as international ones such as cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and even pinot noir. But why hasn’t kekfrankos made a name for itself in Hungary?
“We believe in kekfrankos,” said Gyorgy Lorincz Sr., one of the best winemakers in Hungary and the owner of St. Andrea Winery, which is located outside the town of Eger. “It has to have low yields and be planted in the right place. Limestone soils are amazing for kekfrankos. But there is not very much of those soils here.”
His St. Andrea Egri Bikavér Grand Superior Nagy-Eged-Hegy Agapé 2018 was the Hungarian wine of our tastings this summer in Europe. Mostly kekfrankos but with the addition of merlot, pinot noir, syrah and kadarka, the red showed intense aromas of red fruits, flowers and minerals that follow through to a medium to full body with focused and refined tannins and a long finish. It compares to some of the best reds of the world.
Sebastian Giraldo Makojev, the brand manager of Sauska wineries in Villany, Tokaj, and Budapest: said kekfrankos “is everywhere in Hungary, and if you are from Hungary you probably have a relative who makes some.” However, he added: “It’s probably poor quality, so you don’t drink it in Hungary, but the export market wants it! I think it can be the flag for Hungarian wines.”
Tibor Gal, who makes handmade and modern wines with his siblings in subterranean cellars in the heart of the town of Eger, also believes in kekfrankos.
But he thinks it’s best in his blends under the appellation Bikaver, which allows fellow wine producers to use other grapes such as kadarka or even syrah or cabernet sauvignon. However, kekfrankos must be the majority of the blend.
“Eger has 50 grape varieties that were developed after World War II,” Gal said during a tasting of his range at his winery in July. “But many were high production and bad quality. We focus on kekfrankos with a few other of the top-quality varieties in our Bikaver.”
The grape variety of furmint could also impress wine lovers outside of Hungary. You’re probably familiar with the grape, which makes different levels of outstanding quality sweet wines from the limestone soils of Tokaj. But the top single-vineyard dry whites of furmint have really come into their own in the region in recent years, and they have much of the same personality of top cru Chablis, with density, freshness and minerality.
“Tokaj is the shining diamond on the crown for Hungarian wines,” added Makojev, Sauska’s brand manager. “But the crown is dry wine!”
Sauska”s Furmint Tokaji Medve 2022 was one of the top dry whites of our Hungarian wine tasting. It showed precise and focused character of flint, stone and citrus in both the nose and palate. The underlining steely nature of the wine gives it tension and freshness.
Nonetheless, wine-loving Hungarians themselves drink more cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc than bottles of kekfrankos or furmint, despite such outstanding quality bottles, according to key wine producers. “Nobody seems to want to drink furmit here, or kékfrankos,” added vintner Krisztian Sauska. “They would prefer chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon by comparison.”
Indeed, Hungarian wine producers say that they still need to rely so much on their local market for selling high-quality wines that it’s necessary to make more wines from international varieties instead of local ones. Even though almost 40 percent of Hungarian wine made each year is exported, most is cheap and of average quality and either sold in bulk or in low-cost bottles to Eastern Europe. Top wines are mostly sold in the capital, Budapest.
“We sell hardly anything to key markets such as the United States, but we hope that may change one day,” said Sauska, whose newly constructed winery and visitors’ center are among the most modern and well-designed in the country and sit on a hillside overlooking some of the best vineyards of Tokaj.
With what we rated this year and what I tasted from barrel, good to outstanding quality bottles of Hungarian wines are on the horizon in key international wine markets. It’s only a matter of time when more people try them, and many bottles will most likely be dry and local, such as kekfrankos and furmint.
– James Suckling, Editor/Chairman
Note: You can sort the wines below by vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.
Tasting Notes
Royal Tokaji Tokaji Essencia 2009 |
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St. Andrea Egri Bikavér Grand Superior Nagy-Eged-Hegy Agapé 2018 |
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Malatinszky Merlot Villány Kúria 2015 |
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Árpád-Hegy Pince Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2013 |
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Demeter Zoltan Furmint Tokaji Boda 2018 |
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Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2017 |
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Sauska Cabernet Sauvignon Villány Ördögárok 2019 |
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Sauska Furmint Tokaji Medve 2022 |
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Sauska Merlot Villány Kopár 2017 |
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Sauska Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2019 |
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Sauska Villány Cuvée 5 2016 |
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Sauska Villány Cuvée 5 2017 |
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St. Andrea Egri Bikavér Grand Superior Nagy-Eged Dülö 2018 |
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Szepsy Furmint Tokaji Urbán 73 2020 |
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Chateau Dereszla Furmint Tokaji Selection 2021 |
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Gál Tibor Egri Bikavér Grand Superior Sikhegy 2018 |
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Ifj. Márkvárt János Kékfrankos Szekszárd 2021 |
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Malatinszky Cabernet Franc Villány Kúria 2015 |
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Malatinszky Villány Kúria Kövesföld 2009 |
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Pajzos Furmint Tokaji Double Selection 2018 |
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Sanzon Hárslevelü Tokaji Rány 2021 |
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Sauska Furmint Tokaji Birsalmás 2022 |
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Sauska Furmint Tokaji Medve 2021 |
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Sauska Kékfrankos Villány 2020 |
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Sauska Pinot Noir Tokaji Birs 2020 |
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St. Andrea Egri Bikavér Grand Superior Hangács 2021 |
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St. Andrea Egri Bikavér Superior Merengö Volcanic Wine 2019 |
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St. Andrea Egri Cuvée Grand Superior Nagy-Eged-Hegy Mária 2021 |
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Szepsy Furmint Tokaji Szent Tamás 46 2020 |
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Szepsy Tokaji Szamorodni 2017 |
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Attila Gere Villány Attila 2012 |
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Demeter Zoltan Furmint Tokaji Szerelmi 2019 |
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Gál Tibor Egri Bikavér Grand Superior Pajados 2018 |
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Gál Tibor Egri Bikavér Superior 2021 |
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Gál Tibor Kekfrankos Eger 2018 |
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Malatinszky Cabernet Franc Villány Kúria 2009 |
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Malatinszky Cabernet Franc Villány Noblesse 2016 |
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Malatinszky Villány Kövesföld 2013 |
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Moric Furmint Tokaj Hidden Treasures A Moric Project Nr 1 2021 |
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Moric Nagy-Somlói Hidden Treasures A Moric Project Nr. 2 2021 |
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Moric Riesling Furmint Balaton Hidden Treasures A Moric Project Nr. 3 2021 |
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Oremus Furmint Tokaji Petracs Single Vineyard 2020 |
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Oremus Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos 2017 |
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Oremus Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos 2018 |
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Orosz Gábor Furmint Hárslevelü Tokaji Nyulászó 2017 |
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Pajzos Furmint Tokaji Selection 2021 |
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Sauska Cabernet Franc Villány Makár 2017 |
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Sauska Furmint Tokaji Medve 2020 |
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Sauska Villány Cuvée 11 2019 |
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Sauska Villány Cuvée 11 2020 |
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St. Andrea Eger Mysterium 2018 |
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St. Andrea Egri Bikavér Grand Superior Nagy-Eged-Hegy Agapé 2016 |
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St. Andrea Egri Bikavér Superior Merengö Volcanic Wine 2006 |
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St. Andrea Egri Csillag Superior Örökké 2022 |
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St. Andrea Egri Cuvée Grand Superior Nagy-Eged-Hegy Mária 2020 |
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Szepsy Furmint Tokaji Betsek 2020 |
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Szepsy Furmint Tokaji Úrágya 63 2020 |
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Tokaj-Hétszőlő Furmint Tokaji Kis-Garai Dry 2021 |
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Árpád-Hegy Pince Furmint Tokaji Zafir Dülö 2021 |
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Árpád-Hegy Pince Tokaji Szamorodni 2017 |
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Attila Gere Villány Attila 2017 |
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Demeter Zoltan Furmint Tokaji 2022 |
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Dorgó Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2014 |
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Eszterbauer Merlot Cabernet Franc Szekszárd Mesterünk 2019 |
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Feind Balaton Choice 2018 |
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Feind Chardonnay Balatonfüred-Csopaki Batonnage 2021 |
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Gál Tibor Egri Bikavér Superior 2020 |
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Gilvesy Furmint Badacsony Váradi 2020 |
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Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Badacsony Terra No. 2 2021 |
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Grand Tokaj Furmint Tokaji Meszes 2021 |
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Grand Tokaj Furmint Tokaji Petö 2021 |
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Gróf Degenfeld Furmint Tokaji Zomborka Organic 2022 |
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Heimann & Fiai Kékfrankos Szekszárd Baranya-Völgy 2021 |
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Heimann & Fiai Kékfrankos Szekszárd Szivem 2021 |
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Heimann Szekszárd Barbár Cuvée 2020 |
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Holdvölgy Furmint Tokaji 2019 |
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Hummel Merlot Villány Xeyn 2020 |
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Ifj. Márkvárt János Bikavér Szekszárd 2019 |
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Malatinszky Cabernet Franc Villány Maghari 2019 |
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Malatinszky Merlot Villány Noblesse 2020 |
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Ma’d Moser Furmint Tokaji MM55 Dry 2021 |
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Orosz Gábor Furmint Tokaji Betsek 2016 |
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Pannonhalmi Pannonhalma Infusio 2020 |
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Sárga Borház Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos La Maison Jaune 2019 |
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Sauska Cabernet Franc Villány Makár 2018 |
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Sauska Chardonnay Tokaji 2022 |
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Sauska Chardonnay Tokaji Birs 2022 |
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Sauska Furmint Tokaji 2022 |
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Sauska Furmint Tokaji Birsalmás 2020 |
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Sauska Furmint Tokaji Birsalmás 2021 |
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Sauska Kadarka Villány 2021 |
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Sauska Kékfrankos Villány 2019 |
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Sauska Pinot Noir Tokaji Padi 2020 |
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Sauska Sauvignon Blanc Tokaji 2022 |
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Sauska Siklós Cuvée 7 2019 |
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Sauska Syrah Villány 2016 |
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Sauska Tokaji Cuvée 111 2010 |
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Sauska Villány Cuvée 11 2011 |
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Sauska Villány Cuvée 13 2021 |
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Sauska Villány Cuvée 7 2019 |
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Sebestyén Bikavér Szekszárd Porkoláb 2020 |
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St. Andrea Egri Csillag Grand Superior Boldogságos 2021 |
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St. Andrea Egri Csillag Grand Superior Boldogságos 2022 |
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St. Andrea Egri Kadarka Grand Superior Nagykadarka 2021 |
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Szepsy Furmint Tokaji Hasznos 2020 |
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Takler Szekszárd Grand 2017 |
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Vida Péter Szekszárd La Vida 2020 |
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Vida Péter Szekszárd Lösz 2020 |
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Villa Tolnay Badacsony Tenger Féher Cuvée ** 2022 |
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Villa Tolnay Cabernet Franc Badacsony Csobáncz Unfiltered *** 2020 |
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2HA Balaton Courage 2017 |
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Attila Gere Villány Andrea 2012 |
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Attila Gere Villány Kopar 2020 |
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Attila Gere Villány Solus Kopár Dülö 2020 |
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Balassa Furmint Tokaji 2022 |
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Balassa Furmint Tokaji Szent Tamás 2021 |
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Barta Tokaji Szamorodni Öreg Király Dölö 2017 |
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Disznókó Tokaji Dry Inspiration 2021 |
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Dorgó Tokaji Édes Szamorodni 2018 |
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Eszterbauer Bikavér Szekszárd Báró Steiner 2020 |
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Eszterbauer Kadarka Szekszárd Nagyapám 2022 |
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Eszterbauer Szekszárd Grand 2017 |
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Feind Balatonfured-Csopak The Reason 2019 |
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Feind Cabernet Franc Balatonfured-Csopak 2019 |
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Filep Furmint Hárslevelü Tokaji 2020 |
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Filep Hárslevelü Tokaji 2019 |
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Gál Tibor Egri Csillag 2022 |
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Gál Tibor Kadarka Eger 2022 |
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Gál Tibor Pinot Noir Eger 2020 |
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Gilvesy Badacsony St. George 2021 |
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Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Badacsony 2021 |
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Gilvesy Rajnai Rizling Badacsony Terra No. 1 2021 |
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Gilvesy Sauvignon Blanc Balaton 2022 |
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Gilvesy Sauvignon Blanc Balaton Mogyorós 2019 |
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Grand Tokaj Furmint Tokaji 2021 |
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Grand Tokaj Muscat Blanc Tokaji 2022 |
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Hattyús Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2018 |
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Hattyüs Tokaji Szamorodni Édes 2019 |
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Heimann & Fiai Kadarka Szekszárd Porkoláb-Völgy 2021 |
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Heimann & Fiai Kékfrankos Szekszárd Bati Kereszt 2021 |
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Heimann Szekszárd Franciscus 2019 |
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Holdvölgy Hárslevelü Tokaji Becsek 2019 |
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Hummel Harslevelü Villány 2022 |
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Hummel Portugieser Villány Frost 2016 |
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Hummel Portugieser Villány Gelassenheit 2020 |
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Hummel Villány Dumbledore 2019 |
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Légli Balatonboglár Pezsgö Brut |
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Malatinszky Cabernet Franc Villány Kúria 2008 |
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Malatinszky Cabernet Franc Villány Noblesse 2017 |
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Malatinszky Cabernet Sauvignon Villány Kúria 2007 |
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Malatinszky Chardonnay Siklós Noblesse 2020 |
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Malatinszky Villány Serena Rubra Noblesse 2016 |
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Malatinszky Villány Serena Vin Naturelle 2021 |
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Oremus Furmint Tokaji Mandolas 2021 |
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Oroszlános Furmint Tokaji Csak Tállya 2022 |
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Oroszlános Furmint Tokaji Hasznos Dülö 2021 |
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Patricius Furmint Tokaji Profundum 2021 |
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Patricius Furmint Tokaji Selection 2021 |
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Sandahl Badacsony Odin's Horse Sleipnir 2020 |
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Sandahl Badacsony Oh Deer 2018 |
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Sauska Cabernet Franc Siklós 2019 |
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Sauska Cabernet Franc Villány 2016 |
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Sauska Furmint Tokaji Brut 2015 |
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Sauska Kadarka Villány 2019 |
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Sauska Pinot Noir Tokaji 2015 |
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Sauska Tokaji Cuvée 113 2022 |
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Sauska Tokaji Late Harvest Cuvée 2022 |
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Sebestyén Bikavér Szekszárd Iván 2020 |
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Sebestyén Bikavér Szekszárd Mozaik 2020 |
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St. Andrea Egri Bikavér Superior Áldás 2021 |
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St. Andrea Egri Csillag Napbor 2022 |
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St. Donat Furmint Balaton Márga 2021 |
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St. Donat Kékfrankos Balaton Magma 2020 |
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St. Donat Olaszrizling Balaton Szent Donát 2019 |
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Takler Kékfrankos Szekszárd Szenta-Hegyi 2019 |
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Takler Syrah Szekszárd Primarius 2019 |
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Takler Szekszárd Minden 50 Évben Every 50 Years 2020 |
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Takler Szekszárd Regnum Cuvée 2019 |
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Thummerer Egri Bikavér Grand Superior Eger Nagy-Eged Dülö 2018 |
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Tokaj-Hétszőlő Furmint Tokaji Dry 2021 |
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Tóth Ferenc Egri Kékfrankos Síkhegi Dülö Grand Superior 2021 |
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Tóth Ferenc Egri Pinot Noir Superior 2021 |
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Tüzkö Birtok Cabernet Franc Pannon 2020 |
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Válibor Rajnai Rizling Badacsony Tabula Rasa 2021 |
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Vida Péter Szekszárd La Vida 2017 |
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Villa Tolnay Balaton C Cuvée Vörös Unfiltered ** 2020 |
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Villa Tolnay Furmint Balaton Csobáncz 2021 |
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Villa Tolnay Rajnai Rizling Badacsony Csobáncz * 2022 |
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Villa Tolnay Rajnai Rizling Badacsony Csobáncz *** 2019 |
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Wassmann Cabernet Franc Villány 2018 |
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Artor Villány 2019 |
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Áts Furmint Tokaji Szent Tamás 2021 |
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Attila Gere Merlot Villány Attila 2015 |
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Babits Furmint Tokaji 2019 |
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Bussay Olaszrizling Csörnyeföld Kövecs 2020 |
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Bussay Zala Csókaszölö 2022 |
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Chateau Dereszla Furmint Tokaji Száraz Dry 2021 |
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Disznókó Furmint Tokaji Dry 2021 |
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Disznókó Tokaji Késöl Szüret 2018 |
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Feind Balatonfured-Csopak Sunshine 2022 |
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Feind Rajnai Rizling Berekszél 2022 |
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Furmint & Hun Furmint Tokaji 2021 |
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Gilvesy Balaton Bohém Balatoni Cuvée 2021 |
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Hattyús Furmint Tokaji Késöi Szüret 2020 |
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Heimann & Fiai Kadarka Szekszárd 2022 |
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Heimann & Fiai Kékfrankos Szekszárd Bati Kereszt 2020 |
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Hummel Cabernet Franc Villány Panterra 2016 |
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Hummel Furmint Villány 2021 |
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Hummel Harslevelü Villány Góré 2019 |
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Hummel Pinot Noir Villany 2020 |
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Hummel Portugieser Villány Perro 2019 |
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Malatinszky Chardonnay Siklós Noblesse 2019 |
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Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest 2022 |
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Pannonhalmi Pinot Noir Pannonhalma 2021 |
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Pannonhalmi Rainai Rizling Pannonhalma 2022 |
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Sárga Borház Tokaji Édes Szamorodni 2020 |
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Sárga Borház Tokaji Late Harvest 2018 |
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Sauska Hungary Extra Dry |
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Sauska Kadarka Villány 2020 |
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Sauska Pinot Noir Felsö-Magyarországi Rosé 2022 |
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Sauska Pinot Noir Tokaji Rosé 2022 |
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Sauska Sargamuskotaly Tokaji 2022 |
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Sauska Tokaji Méthode Traditionnelle Brut |
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Sauska Villány Rosé 2022 |
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Sebestyén Szekszárd Rebel 2017 |
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Somlói Vándor Nagy-Somlói Celli 2022 |
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St. Donat Kékfrankos Balaton Szent Donát 2018 |
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Takler Bikavér Szekszárd Örökség 2019 |
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Takler Cabernet Franc Szekszárd Szenta-Hegyi 2019 |
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Takler Merlot Szekszárd Primarius 2019 |
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Thummerer Egri Cuvée Superior Vili Papa 2016 |
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Tóth Ferenc Egri Csillag Superior 2022 |
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Tüzkö Birtok Grüner Veltliner Pannon Zoldveltelini 2022 |
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Válibor Kéknyulü Badascony 2021 |
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Villa Tolnay Balaton Névtelen Vörös Cuvée Unfiltered ** 2019 |
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Villa Tolnay Grüner Veltliner Balaton Zöldveltelini 2022 |
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Vylvan Cabernet Franc Villány 2017 |
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Wassmann Kékfrankos Villány 2017 |
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Áts Furmint Hárslevelü Tokaji Suba 2021 |
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Feind Balatonfured-Csopak Magaspart 2022 |
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Feind Irsai Olivér Balaton 2022 |
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Feind Királyleányka Balaton 2022 |
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Feind Olaszrizling Balaton BalatonBor 2022 |
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Palkó Zsolt Furmint Badacsony 2021 |
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Pannonhalmi Pannonhalma Prior 2021 |
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Pannonhalmi Pannonhalma Prior 2022 |
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Sebestyén Szekszárd Szél Rosé 2022 |
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Somlói Vándor Nagy-Somlói Juhfark 2022 |
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Takler Syrah Szekszárd Rosé 2022 |
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Tóth Ferenc Egri Csillag 2022 |
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Tüzkö Birtok Chardonnay Pannon Barrique 2021 |
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Vesztergombi Bikavér Szekszárd 2017 |
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Vesztergombi Malbec Szekszárd 2020 |
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Vesztergombi Szekszárd Alpha 2017 |
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Vesztergombi Szekszárd Csaba 2017 |
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Vida Péter Kadarka Szekszárd Petit Bonsai 2022 |
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Vida Péter Kékfrankos Szekszárd Hidaspetre 2020 |
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Feind Dunántúli Aliga 2022 |
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Havas & Timár Blauburger Eger Burger 2021 |
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Hummel Cabernet Franc Villány Panterra 2018 |
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Pannonhalmi Pannonhalma Hemina 2021 |
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Thummerer Egri Syrah Superior Válogatás 2018 |
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Tüzkö Birtok Gewürztraminer Pannon Tramini 2022 |
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Tüzkö Birtok Rajnai Rizling Pannon 2022 |
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Vesztergombi Syrah Szekszárd Kerékhegy Rosé 2021 |
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Vida Péter Szekszárd Bikavér 2020 |
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2HA Sangiovese Grosso Balaton Tabunello 2019 |
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Attila Gere Cabernet Franc Villány Attila 2012 |
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Disznókó Tokaji Dry Inspiration 2020 |
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Feind Olaszrizling Balaton 2022 |
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Havas & Timár Cabernet Franc Eger Franom 2018 |
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Thummerer Egri Merlot Grand Superior Noszvaj Tekenöhát Dülö 2017 |
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Tüzkö Birtok Pannon 7 Frankos 2020 |
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Vesztergombi Cabernet Sauvignon Szekszárd Bodzás 2017 |
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Vesztergombi Merlot Szekszárd Bodzás 2017 |
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Vesztergombi Syrah Szekszárd Kerékhegy 2017 |
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Sebestyén Szekszárd Grádus 2017 |
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Vesztergombi Kékfrankos Szekszárd Ketvölgy 2018 |
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Vesztergombi Olaszrizling Szekszárd Ezer Töke 2020 |
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