Chances are you will seldom consider merlot, cabernet franc and pinot noir produced in Hungary, let alone wine made from indigenous grapes such as furmint and harslevelu. However, there is actually plenty to savor in the diversity of wines that they produce. From the delicate and vibrant Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos to crisp and lively Super Tokaj, Hungarian wines are available in a range of styles and vintages. More importantly, they are all delicious and ready to be enjoyed now, too.
James tasting a wide selection of Hungarian wines in the company of Stefano Chioccioli.
Last September, James had the opportunity to taste a full range of Hungarian wines from the family-owned and operated winery Sauska. Under the grape philosophy of using only the power of gravity and ambient yeasts to craft their wines, Sauska grows both indigenous and international grape varieties in Tokaj (Northeast of Hungary) and Villany (Southwest of Hungary).
The highly acclaimed oenologist and agronomist Stefano Chioccioli —Sauska’s consultant since 2009 —walked us through the complete gamut: white and red, still and sparkling, dry and sweet. The clean, balanced and expressive wines that are made from the indigenous grapes (furmint and harslevelu) are truly golden, while some of the single-varietal wines made from international varietals — such as pinot noir, merlot and chardonnay — are equally exciting.
From crisp sparkling to fruity whites, Sauska offers a lush array of exquisite sips.
Each of the vineyards in Tokaj and Villany grows grapes with its own terroir, taking on different approaches and focuses respectively. In Villany, the aim is to work on revealing the true character of the native varietals such as kadarka and kekfrankos, as well as Villany’s “adopted grape from Bordeaux,” cabernet franc. On the other hand, in Tokaj, it’s about the quest for creating meaningful single-varietal wines with the grapes furmint, harslevelu and yellow muscat. On top of that, the vineyard in Tokaj also plays with different international varietals such as chardonnay and pinot noir.
We are not sure whether or not furmint will become a big trend in the upcoming years. However, we definitely look forward to visiting the region for a more extensive tasting trip. And of course, there is no doubt that Sauska is on the top of our list. Give these lovely Hungarian wines a try when the opportunity arises. We hope you enjoy tasting them as much as we did! — Clarence Ng, Assistant Editor Asia
