After tasting more than 1,000 samples for our recent two-part Chile report, one of our takeaways was how well syrah and carignan showed, almost stealing the limelight cast on this South American wine hub, which is known for its great value and very high average quality bottles.
While carmenere is still one of the most signature and commercially important red grapes from Chile, its status is being challenged by the other ambitious contenders in the mid-price range, be they syrah, carignan or even Mediterranean blends that mix the unique, Chile-style freshness into rich and appetizingly spicy wines.
The Mediterranean aspect of Chile includes an array of varietal wines and their blends. Putting the spicy yet diverse syrah and the mouth-watering carignan aside, producers like P.S. Garcia, Lapostolle, Viña Koyle, Clos de Luz, Maturana and Lagar de Codegua have shown commitment in their varietal grenache – and in a few cases, in mourvedre and marselan, too.
The Itata Valley’s lighter, fresh and fruity cinsault also demands attention. De Martino, Montes, Carmen, Garage and Torres have delivered very impressive varietal cinsault through different winemaking techniques, showing perfumed cherry and bramble fruit as they punctuate freshness, drinkability and the tactile allure of the grape.
The adoption of the GSM blend in Chile underlines the switch in the country from varietal wines to a much broader spectrum of blending options – either based on Mediterranean grapes or adorned by them. For example, we found a few GCMs (carignan in the place of syrah) quite interesting.
TASTING CHILE: A look back at James and the JamesSuckling.com tasting team’s trip to Chile in 2020.
ANDEAN WAY: A roundup of Great Wines of the Andes events in 2019, presented by JamesSuckling.com
MEDITERRANEAN SENSIBILITY
Polkura’s innovative addition of tempranillo, Bodega Volcanes de Chile’s inclusion of some petite sirah, and Viña Morandé’s experimental fusion of marsanne and rousanne with the grenache-syrah-carignan blend all highlight the fun aspect of Chile’s wine scene, giving it a more effective dose of Mediterranean sensibility. And with the threat of climate change coupled with the lack of irrigation water in Chile, the successful adaptation of Mediterranean grapes and their blends in the country not only makes sense, but it could also make a principled difference.
One of our top wines this year from Chile – Emiliana Valle de Colchagua Los Robles Estate Gê 2018 – demonstrates how carmenere and cabernet sauvignon work so well together, with syrah taking the helm of the blend. This biodynamic rendition is one of the most consistent deliveries from Chile’s top echelon that reflects the Mediterranean style.
The following are eight bottles from Chile priced at under $40 that show how Mediterranean grape blends have added a delicious intrigue to our tastings. They are not yet the mainstream style in Chile, and most are made in a limited quantity – some quite experimental and made by boutique, independent MOVI producers like P.S. Garcia, Polkura, Garage and Lagar de Codegua.
But as syrah and carignan continue to rise in the country, we have reason to believe that more discoveries of high-quality wines made from Mediterranean varieties await.
– Zekun Shuai, Associate Editor
Polkura Valle de Colchagua Marchigue GSM +T 2019 – JS95
U.S. Price : $33 (Previous Vintages)
Bodega Volcanes de Chile Grenache Petite Sirah Mourvedre Central Valley Tectonia 2019 – JS93
U.S. Price: $19 (Previous Vintages)
Garage Wine & Co Carignan Garnacha Monastrell Valle de Maule Sauzal Vineyard Field Blend Lot 95 2018 – JS93
U.S. Price: $38 (Previous vintages)
Undurraga Garnacha Cariñena Monastrell Valle de Maule Terroir Hunter Rarities 2019 – JS93
International Price: $26 (Previous Vintages)
Viña Koyle Alto Colchagua Cerro Basalto Los Lingues Vineyard 2019 – JS93
International Price: $34 (Previous Vintages)
Carmen Valle de Maule Matorral Chileno Mezcla Tinta 2020 – JS92
Chile Price : $23
Lagar de Codegua Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre Alto Cachapoal Codegua GSM 2018 – JS92
Chile Price : $20
Viña Morandé Grenache Syrah Marsanne Carignan Roussanne Valle de Maule Mediterráneo 2018 – JS92
International Price : $32 (Previous vintages)
